anyone with experience putting a 96 motor in a 95 Z34????

[thechadlyman]

hey thanks alot man...i must have entered something wrong because i got nothing...

[pocket-rocket]

No problem. Good luck getting it going right (not that it will take luck with the right stuff, lol).

[dohcfiend]

damn good thing i read this i am putting a 96 in a my 94. i need to change the crank sensor and the notched plate or just the plate or just the sensor?

next, how do i remove the harmonic balancer? and whats up with the rubber thing in it? last thing is there any difference in the flexplates? i am having a little trouble mating the tranny to the engine. i can only tighten one side and the other side will have a gap in it and as far as i know there is no special way to install the tq converter, last time when i put the original engine in it went alot smoother.

[thechadlyman]

you know what Bobby....those are all great questions...and since my brother did the install im going to have you email him...he faced the very same problem with making the tranny and engine mate. so hit him with an email at heartbeat1991@hotmail.com and im quite certain he will take care of you...just let him know chad told you to email him and good luck with all that. i believe the 94/5 were the same and 96/7 so if you get it mated up and running right let me know what you did to make it work...lata oh yeah...and in case you didnt already figure these things out...you are going to have to buy new exhaust manifolds if it didnt come with them...and you are most likely going to have some trouble making that work so again...ask my brother about those things too....i remember those being some of the issues he dealt with

[dohcfiend]

kewl thanx, it did come with ex. manifolds but i am in the process of a bypassing the A.I.R. which i am going to cut the tubes(already done), remove them (already done) and have the ends welded up.

next is the egr which i am going to have to have the 94 plate cut and welded into the 96 system somehow, i have some idea's brewing in my head about that 2. damn that is a shame looks like i will need an oilpan gasket. the 2 crank sensors looked identical between the 2 motors(even the 3 wires were the same color) so i wasn't going to bother with it(that was the lazyness kicking in). my 96 engine is 99% complete it didn't come with the metal coolant line that goes from the lim to the waterpump.

i was attempting to mate up the motor and tranny at 930 pm so tomorrow afternoon i will examine and compare the flexplates.

[SappySE107]

I know some of the sensor wiring isn't the same, or at least the IAC wiring doesnt match up with the 95 wiring. I would put the car on a scantool and make sure all the sensors are reading properly and doing what they are supposed to. 95 and 96 are both SFI so I don't know if they changed the sensors or not but they both do the same thing with 24x for idle quality and SFI mode and then the same old crank position sensor used since 91 as far as I know.

This could also be a case of some hardware just failing, like injectors, ignition/sparkplugs and wires, or whatever. I would look over the wiring first and compare the wiring diagrams from 95 to 96 and make sure everything is as the 95 computer is expecting. If you have access to a scan tool, your life will be much easier in diagnosing these problems. My only experience with a 96 motor is with a haltech and looking at the wiring diagrams that were for 95 and seeing the errors in using that while it was in fact changed in 96.

If the 24x sensor was faulty, it would just resort to using the older sensor and above 3000 it doesnt use the 24x anyway. This is why im doubting it has much to do with that right now, especially if it idles ok.

[dohcfiend]

perhaps that might be the answer then. try swapping out your IAC with your older one.

so, u are saying that the 94-95 engines and the 96-97 engine have the same crank position sensor wiring and the same sensor and they both use 24x?......sweet. i really didn't want to change that anyway. i would've needed to buy a puller tool.

i have an autoxray but that won't do me any good until i get the harness on the motor.

i don't have access to the wiring diagrams but from appearences all the sensors i have observed look the same(i haven't looked at any of the sensors on the uim yet, i won't get to that until after i install the motor) but i switched them anyway while i had easy access to them. i switched the fan switch, the o2 sensor, the alternator, another 2-wire sensor in the rear bank of the block(maybe a knock sensor) and the oil sensor(or sender) in the front for now. i am pretty certain they might be compatible so i will keep the 96 ones as spares.

the only ones i don't plan on switching(for now) are the crank position sensor, the sensor that screws into the front head and the sensor that screws into the lim(these look like they might develop leaks if i switch them and the crank sensor just plain looks like a pain in the ass. all the rest i plan on switching just cause i know all the 94 ones work properly.

the only pain in the ass i see is converting to the old 91-95 egr.

[pocket-rocket]

Ok, I was under the impression that the 24x was used all the time, and gave my input since no one else was offering up ideas.

[grandprixgtp_91]

i gave my idea to change the balancer sensor and stuff but nobody listened . i thought that would have been the easiest. oh well.

Jake

[thechadlyman]

hey guys i appreciate your ideas...really i do...all of them...i havent tried anything yet because i live 2300 miles from where my car is right now...im waiting on my brother to do something...im feeding him all your ideas...

[dohcfiend]

hi, i have a way to make mating the engine and tranny easier and quicker for future reference at least fwd ones anyway. i talked to your bro and he said everything was cool and try again also the flexplates are identical.
(u will need 1 friend for this)
u attach the engine to the hoist and keep it level, jack the motor up about 2-3 ft off the ground, put a large board on top of a hydrallic floorjack, set the tranny on the jack, jack it up just a few times, then lower the motor into place, line it up shove them together and put a bolt in after u get 1 bolt in u have it. since they are both pretty much suspended in the air there is almost no resistence when u are tightening bellhousing bolts to get it to mate properly.

hopefully i will have this thing in the car by tues and running by thurs. also i bought a balancer puller and i pulled the old sensor i will switch the crank sensors if necessary. but sappy is usually right we shall see.


also chadly, did u bypass the AIR and convert your egr?

[thechadlyman]

let me ask my brother what he did...i'll get back to you he did something with the EGR i know that

[dohcfiend]

oh, when i re-installed my 94 engine back, it wouldn't crank, it would sputter a few times to tease me but that was it. i searched a few other threads and some1 elses car didn't run either and some1 suggested the injectors might be at fault i checked my fuel pressure and it was low, so i pulled the rail(with the lines still connected), disconnected the connectors on the injectors and cheated the fuel pump and it turned out 4 of my injectors wouldn't close properly and purge their fuel after i changed them it fired right up. maybe if 1 of yours was faulty it might give u trouble like that and still crank up.

other than that do u get a SES light when it runs crappy?

tried coilpacks or checking for spark? With the car runnning pull your wires 1 at a time and see if u get an arc to ground if u don't get an arc one of your coilpacks might be bad. another sign will be if u pull a wire and there is no change in idle.

hopefully i will have my 96 in the car by tues and running by wed on OBD1. MAF/sequential setup same as yours. I won't be able to drive it until the weekend though cause i will have to take it to a shop to get those Damned band clamps on.

[thechadlyman]

well i have never gotten an SES light...we tried a few things but never can get the light to even come on...think its broke, my brother found a bad plug and changed it....the idle evened out...lost its skip...havent checked the injectors...my brother is checking the cat now that it lost its skip...it just has no power now...he says it runs pretty smooth...so he plans to drop the exhaust and run it open header to see what happens with the power and then if thats not it he said he was going on to check ignition timing and see if it has something to do with the stuff the other guys were talking about b4

[dohcfiend]

unplug any sensor the ses and start the car, the light should come on. kewl, hope he finds the cause of your woes.

only way i know of to check timing(mechanicaly) is to check the cam flats at tdc to see if they are facing up. at tdc 1 side should have the cam flats facing up, then rotate 360 degrees back to tdc and check the other side's cam flats.

i am done with my air bypass, now i will do my egr conversion. i broke it down into 3 stages 1 manifold to egr solenoid, 2 egr to intake, and 3 mounting it somewhere.

lmk if the crank sensor is faulty as soon as u find out and i will change mine out be4 i stick it in the car.