Timing help

[fierofanatic88]

I am new to DOHC's and I need some help I was thinking of getting a DOHC for my fiero. I can get a good deal on one but the problem is that the prioir owner tried to replace the timing belts and messed the timing up?How difficult is it to retime the engine.If the engine is ok mechanically other than the timing would it be a good investment at 200 bucks for it? If they tried to start the car and it was out of time could it have damaged anything?

Thanks for the help

[RednBlack]

If you cruise around some previous posts, this is very well covered. And it is covered in the opening page under 3.4 DOHC/Maintenance. Pics and everything. The Moderators here do a very good job! But you have to watch them! They have been known to pull pranks now and then! Like shutting down the site! Richardheads! Yes, I fell for it! Ha Ha ($%^#@&^*(&)

[bud36light]

Like shutting down the site! Richardheads! Yes, I fell for it! Ha Ha ($%^#@&^*(&)

I think I fell even a little further than you RBC! Hey fierofanatic88 try running a search on timing a LQ 1. You otta get a lot of hits on this site. Its been well covered inside and out. If you cant figure it out just post back and some one will cover it for you.

[SappySE107]

Unless it was timed so far off that the cam was at full lift when the piston was at TDC, it should be perfect mechanically. Even if by some odd chance it was timed that way, it still has a good chance of being fine. Its a non interference motor (unless its 96-97, then thats a debate cause no one has checked that I know of).

200 is a good price for a good running engine minus cam timing. The motor will be out so its pretty damn simple to time it. I its a 91-93 engine, you will need the cam gear puller to get the cam gears off. If its 94+, then you wont need that (the lock rings changed in 94 to a MUCH better type that is simple to deal with). You will need a cam gear holder though to break them loose, but others have used vise grips to clamp the gears together as well. You just dont want to use the cam flat tool to do this, cause it will strip those threads. That is the other part you will need, but you can make it yourself or cut up a block of wood to just measure the cam flat as flush with the top of the cam carrier and move the cams by hand with pliers once they are close to spec.

http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?p=sections&sid=8

Check that out, all the maintenance articles we have on the site so far for this engine, including how to make the hold down tools if you wish. The picture walkthrough for timing the engine should give you an idea of what all is involved.

oh yeah, im shutting the site down forever cause I hate 60V6s...i love the L67:P hehehehe

[bud36light]

oh yeah, im shutting the site down forever cause I hate 60V6s...i love the L67:P hehehehe

Not this time, No. Didnt even come close.Nada.

My sprocket bolts were so tight I had to make a homade sprocket holder just to bust them loose. Vise Grips didnt stand a chance in this particular situation.

[Lyle's GTP]

Yeah, those bolts can get tight. I had one I swear was like 200 ft/lbs to break. I busted my 3/8" ratchet doing it. The funny thing is that I had torqued those cam bolts to spec, myself 18 months ealier. Go figure that....

Lyle

[RednBlack]

Don't shut it down untill I download everything!!! .....Wait a minute! You're joking again! Almost had me there.

[SappySE107]

The engine will torque the bolts down more as it runs...look at the way the cams spin:P Yeah, it sucks sometimes...chris all but destroyed my cam gear holder trying to get it off. I think it was the rear exhaust cam that was the real pain to do.

[bud36light]

that rear exhaust bolt is in a pretty tight spot. I used 2 1/2inch breaker bars with cheater pipes to break that one loose. The tightest one in that situation was the front exhaust. Shees. 1/2 inch breaker bar with cheater and a 3/4 inch ratchet with cheater. of course I busted a craftsman 15mm too.

[fierofanatic88]

The engine came from a 95 Monte Carlo. Now I know I need the wiring and the ECU what should I look for if its not available from the donor car?Does anyone here have any extra wiring harness?The car its going into is a 5spd so would it be easier to get a manual harness or doesnt it matter?Thanks for all the input so far.Monday I pick the engine up tuesday the old one will be out.Then the fun begins...

[bud36light]

Time the thing b4 it goes in!!Also Relpace what u can afford cause it sure saves time($) later

[SappySE107]

It depends on if you are gonna keep it MAF or convert to MAP. 91-93 are MAP and were available as 5 speeds. 94-95 are MAF and didnt have a 5 speed option but you could reprogram the computer for it if you wanted. The harness choice depends on what you wanna do. Even if you convert to MAP, you can use an auto harness and modify it a little.