Analog Tach to Digital Tach

[stantmann]

Call me massochistic, but I have an uninstalled digital dash with tach and wanted to swap it out from my current analog with tach. Somebody posted on here not too long ago, which wires had to be swapped out. I know it was only a pinouts that had to switched. I originally put this in the wrong thread - Sorry Ben.

CAN SOMEBODY REPOST WIRING INFO THIS PLEASE?

Thanks,
Dennis

[stantmann]

I found a web page that I was looking for. I thought it was here, but it was from w-body. I copied the web page to my web site. http://www.wideopenwest.com/~lrstanl...%20Cluster.htm

Looking at this, it is actually an upgrade from basic digital to the tach digital. I can probably get enough info from this to make it work. Probably won't get time to do this until next weekend. I'll update the page when completed.

[stantmann]

I need a schematic for the Analog Cluster for 94 Cutlass - Anybody help?

I ripped up my cluster wires last year, and never finished the conversion. Should be able to finish this weekend. Rather then put everything back to original, I just used some DB 25 cables and pinned them out. Pins C1 - C16 are one DB25 (Labeled C1), and D1 - D16 are on the other DB25. I then pinned out the female version of these on the other side of the connection. Here's a picture. and the picture of my unfinished cable for the digital speedo (gray). I just did the digital today, I just had to match the pins against the standard analog. With this setup, I can switch from Analog to Digital and back again just by switching the DB25 and harness.
I don't have the actual pinouts for the Analog, only the Digital Base, which is almost identical. BTW - If you have Analog and want to go standard digital, just plug it in. Well, I still have 3 questions with the new pinouts, hoping one of you has the answer, if not the schematic.
1.) What is C2 on the Analog Cluster - White? I believe it is the Tach, but if so, how did/does the digital tach work then? It is not specified in the Base Cluster info (obviously).
2.) What is C15 on the Analog - Pink/Black?
3.) What is D2 on the Analog Cluster - Brown?

Also if anybody knows which wire (on the analog) is the serial data port, let me know, I still need that for my Convenience Center. I always suspected I could put it on the DLC, but would rather have it in the proper place.

[stantmann]

Scratch the C15 question - If it'd been a snake, i't'd bit me.
Let me ask all over again, it confusing enough as it is:
Well, I still have 3 questions with the new pinouts, hoping one of you has the answer, if not the schematic.
1.) What is C2 on the Analog Cluster - White? I believe it is the Tach, but if so, how did/does the digital tach work then? It is not specified in the Base Cluster info (obviously).
2.) What is D2 on the Analog Cluster - Brown?
3.) Which wire (on the analog) is the serial data port, let me know, I still need that for my Convenience Center. I always suspected I could put it on the DLC, but would rather have it in the proper place.

[stantmann]

I want to go back to simple stuff like changing my Oil Sprocket O ring - Took me 12 hours last week - But while in there, I degreased everything, and replaced all other gaskets that were wearing down.
I have it all figured out but the tach issue. I believe I can tap into the serial from the Data Link Connector (DLC). You guys sure have been silent on this one (except for one private message). Once I get it done, I'll post the pinouts that I know of.
I discovered another issue. Some of my pin wires going into my DB25 are not the right guage (thickness). I'll have to adjust them so my car doesn't catch on fire - But the pinouts are solid and I can easily swap from analog cluster to digital cluster with no problem. Maybe I'll post how to do that too - If nothing else, I'll post it to my website for future reference. Be back soon!

[RednBlack]

I am looking... May take a bit.

[stantmann]

94 cluster wiring is a little different then 93. I went ahead and hooked up the Computer Console (CC) while I was in there. I forgot I had to take the dash apart, since I have a HUD. Since the pinouts are different, it ruined my whole experiment with the DB25's. Oh well....
I figured out the Data Link Connection (DLC) tan wire also the serial cable for the CC at least something good came of it. Now, if I can just figure out why fuel doesn't show up on the CC - I am using the Purple wire, but still not working - Maybe it's the CC hardware?
I'll finish up the Digital tomorrow, if all pins out well. Worked great for the 93, the 94 wants to be a pain in the ass. No yellow or brn/wht (dimming) and no orange (battery) on the 94 harness. I can just splice it into the radio, but need to do a little more studying.... Couple other wires in question. I'll be posting again soon.... If I doesn't work, I'll just put it back into the 93. I only wanted it in one car anyway.

[stantmann]

Here it is. I suggest getting the real harness and using quick connect fittings - This way, you can easily swap them out if you want to go back. My 94 did not have have a Battery or Interior Lights control on it's harness, so I tapped into the radio, but the 93 was fine. The Trip Computer also had a metric switch wire (dark Blue) and now when I hit the metric switch on the Speedo, it changes automatically on the trip Computer too - I did not put it on the HUD however, but will at a later time. Only one problem, my Oil Pressure is showing 100%, but it does test at startup ok, and pinouts are solid. Maybe it reads differently - I don't care, as long as it works.

Digital Harness Analog Harness

C1 (PNK/BLK 39) ignition to cluster
C15 (PNK/BLK 39) Pink Ignition

C2 (LT BLU 14) Left Turn
D4 (LT BLU 14) Left Turn

C3 (DK BLU 15) Right Turn
D6 (DK BLU 15) right turn

C4 (TAN/WHT 33) Brake
C1 (TAN/WHT 33) brake

C5 (GRY/WHT 852) M Br/W Anti Lock
D13 Green Black - Anti Lock

C6 (TAN/BLK 456) Shift
Not Used

C7 (LT GRN 11) Hi Beam
D5 (LT GRN 11) Hi beam

C8 NU
C9 NU

C10 (YEL 726) Display Dim
C6 Yel 726 or Radio

C11 (GRY Cluster Bulbs
C3 Gray 8 - Bulbs

C12 NU

C13 (ORN 461) Serial - C2 Orange CC
DLC probably Tan or Brown Wire

C14 (BLK/WHT 151) Ground
C10 (BLK/WHT 151) BLACK Ground

C15 NU

C16 (PNK/BLK 750) ignition
C15 (PNK/BLK 39) Pink Ignition

D1 (BLK 150) Ground
D7 (BLK 150) ground

D2 (YEL 237) Seat belt
D8 (YEL 237) seat belt

D3 (YEL/BLK 6 Coolant
D14 Yellow Black - Low Coolant

D4 (BRN 25) Charge
D15 (BRN 25) - Charge

D5 (BRN/WHT 419) Service Engine
D16 (BRN/WHT 419) Service Engine
D6 NU
D7 NU
D8 NU

D9 (LT BLU 811) English Metric
Hook to Dk Blu to CC or HUD/both or NU

D10 (BRN/WHT 230) Dimmer
C7 (BRN/WHT 230) Dimmer or Radio

D11 (TAN 31) Oil Press
D11 Tan 31 Oil Press

D12 (DK GRN/WHT 35) Coolant Temp
C16 (DK GRN/WHT 35) Coolant temp

D13 (PPL 30) Fuel Level
C4 (PPL 30) - Fuel

D14 NU

D15 (DK GRN 389) Speed
C5 (DK GRN 389) Speed

D16 (ORN 640) Battery Input
C8 Orange - Battery or Radio

[stantmann]

I fixed the oil sensor issue soon after, but I don't remember the specifics because it was 17 years ago lol. It had something to do with the ohmage if I remember right. The 94 oil sensor sent out 8 ohms when running properly, but the Speedo was set to detect at 4 ohms. I'm making the 8 and 4 numbers up, I can't remember the exact and I no longer have the schematics. I ended up putting a resistor on one end and it took care of the issue. If someone has the schematics, you can easily figure it out.
The ironic thing is the oil pump went out anyway. The light came on when I was pulling in my driveway after work, and by the time I got it in the garage, maybe 15 seconds the car already locked up. Oil has to travel too far to get to the top on these engines, when the oil pump goes, you have to turn it off immefiately.
I now have a 1991 3.1 convertible. I'm too old to be working on car engines, it hurts my back to bend over repeatedly for months on end lol.