I ahve a pic here of my 94 block when it was getting rebuilt. Can someone please tell me where the front knock sensor goes from the 96. Shane (redzmonte) told me there was a spot. I would call him but I have bothered him to much lol. Please help me.
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Knock Sensor on 96, where does it go??
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Well how does that work? I know on the other one, in the back, its a solid hole. I am pretty sure you cant have liquid next to it, right?
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There is no front knock sensor on a 3.4 block before 1996. Only the 96 and 97 blocks had it because they were OBD-II. Only one knock sensor was used with OBDI and 1.5. I made an adapter plate for a front knock sensor on my car that bolts to two of the A/C compressor holes on the block, which transmits noise to the sensor just fine. However, if you're keeping your A/C on the car, you'll need to find another place to attach one.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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Well I got rid of the coils on the bottom of the of the engine, any luck mounting it on one of those holes? Can I just an adapter for the thread?? What does yours look like?
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i think mine is in the place where that hose runs right below the freeze plug and to the right of the oil filter adaptor. Whats that hose? oil cooler? i think the knock sensor has to to into the water jacket of the block.Shane "RedZMonte"
2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
-Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)
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I think the cleanest way to do this is, get a threaded rod the size of the stock hole, weld it to a spacer, and then tap the spacer with the correct thread pitch of the knock sensor. This would work correct?
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I would think you would want it actually threaded into the block to pick up knock correctly. I am not saying it wouldn't, but it might pick up more noise then it needs like that, and might not be sensitive enough. I know the one in the rear, you're supposed to torque it so it's in the right depth so it has the right amount of sensitivity.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Humm really. Well for the rear one, I will go ahead and torque that one down, but for the front I think that the only solution, other than having coolant touching it.
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Since your ICM is moved, I would personally compare the size of the threads on it to the holes for the ICM location and see if it wouldn't fit there, with or without redrilling and tapping. I don't know how a fluid would have an effect on how it "hears". I just think about how I hear under water, and think about how stuff echos a lot. Even though the stock memcal does have a knock filter built in, if you do get 1 count of KR, and it echos around, the ECM would start pulling spark like crazy to eliminate it. I am not saying I have anything concrete to back up what I am posting, but to me, this is what it sounds like would happen.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Its alot smaller hole. I think if I make my adapter and have the thread touch the knock sensor it should be pretty precise. I would rather it do this than redill a hole, or put it in a water plug.
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IF you don't have A/C, you can do what I did. I got a block of 1/2" inch thick aluminum and bolted tight to two od the A/C compressor bolts holes. Because it's bolted up in two places it's good and tight and will transmit anynoise from the block wuite well because it's aluminum and less dense.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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