Adjustable Cam Tool

[RednBlack]

This has been tested, and it simply does not work. Here is why.

The cam flats, as they rotate, change height, and width from center. The tool does not. It has a static rotation, the farther you move it, the more the error is multiplied. And the harder it is to move, eventually, you cannot move it at all. And something will break. Especially if the adjusters are made of steel, and the base is made of aluminum. The base will break. At 3 degree rotation the tool is off, close to 1/2 degree. Check it out with a degree wheel.

Anyone who owns an original, knows what I mean. Notice the hard wear, where the tool flats meet the cam flats? The tool slides, does not rotate with the cam.

Just does not work. Physics 101

I hear the bubbles bursting. Sorry

[dohcfiend]

some1 mentioned something to me about that:

i do not forsee it breaking since the aluminum ones did not.

i think the majority of the wear came from using a softer metal(aluminum) with a harder one(steel cam flats).

as for the timing accuracy the tool will be machined to be exactly accurate at 0 degrees. it has no other marks on it. you lock it in at 0 degrees and rotate the engine instead of the cams. which is also why i highly suggested the degree wheel.

if you wanted to leave the intake cams at 0 and the exhaust cams at 13(6.5 on the cams), set the engine to 0 unlock the intake timing levers and rotate the engine to 13 and unlock the exhaust levers.

i do not forsee any1 going crazy with it but if the inactive levers actually bind up like you say, the inactive levers can be removed.

[RednBlack]

Cool, you really don't know.

[Emc209i]

Don't know what? What he said is reliable with a degree wheel.

Physics gurue to physics gurue what am I/we missing. Better yet what is your improvement?

[SappySE107]

So you aren't making an adjustable setup, but rather something that moves but only has 0 degrees labeled and you still have to use a degree wheel to time it? That doesn't sound anything like what you were talking making before.

[dohcfiend]

they are going to be made exactly like the originals minus the stickers. if some1 wants to turn the cams using the levers, they can.

but one or 2 people complained to me about doing that, i personally did not trust the stickers(which is why i did not use them). as far as machining in individual marks and redesigning the tool? that would have made the tool waaay too expensive for any1 to justify buying.

so i suggested an alternate way of making accurate adjustments using the same tool. it is just that a suggestion, if some1 wants to set the levers somewhere other than 0 degrees using a wheel or whatnot, they can. i kinda hope some1 does to prove or disprove the ongoing theory about the acurracy of the levers at a non-zero point.

in the timing tool thread, it is exactly what i talked about making. only change i made start to finish was making the base out of aluminum b/c the machinist got me by the balls and said he couldn't make them for the original price, so i had to improvise to keep the price the same.

[phantomgreen]

Considering that this is primarily the same tool that was produced before, why would it work or not work any differently? People successfully timed their 60v6's with tool before, correct?

[SappySE107]

Timed, yes, accurate to what we believed, no. There is excessive wear on mine from doing at least 5 timing jobs. I am worried that by making the levers steel or whatever, that instead of gouging my flats, it will strip a bolt or break the base. Don't know for sure.

It would be best to have flats made with the proper angle and just bolt it down like you would the kent moore cam flat tool. No "adjustment" other than using the hold down with the timing you want.

[phantomgreen]

So if you were going about doing a 6/6 timing mod for example, would i be able to get it done with this tool or not? If not, is my only other option to do it with the expensive kent more tool?

[SappySE107]

kent moore tool isn't adjustable. Its a cam flat tool as well. I haven't checked the accuracy myself to say either way. I have no reason to doubt what rednblack is saying though, considering his experience as a machinist. I know the aluminum wasn't working out very well for wear issues. I haven't had a car run poorly though from using the timing tool (rednblacks cutlass was done using it and im sure he was happy with the results). I do think we need a solid solution, which is why I am recommending the flat tool with the angles. Its been made and worked well and its easier to set both cams at the same time by tightening the hold down tool into the cam carrier.

[95SleeperAcheiva]

So, since I have old school tools, V-8 stuff, I geuss what I should do is, make my degree wheel work and do it the old fashion way? '96 LQ1 6/2 timing huh? hmm could be interesting.

[ez112]

That picture is my car.

And even with the tool brand new it still took me three times to get it RUNNING right. Don't know if it's actually the 6 n 6?

On the 2nd install I for shits and giggles used the Kent Moore tools and flattened them, and then put on the tool so that it would be at 0 and 0 (I just so happened to notice the cams were being a whore to move). And when I torqued down the tool, it was NOT a 0 and 0. they were at like 2 and something. I don't remember the number though.

I'm still iffy with the tool, and would probably use a degree wheel the next time.