I don't get it. I was getting MAP sensor code errors when the Lumina had trouble idling. Now I've replaced and secured all the hoses and connectors, I don't get the code anymore, but the idling problem is worse than before. It can't warm idle for s***, it barely holds on to 600 RPM and it drops down and dies, and on top of that, now the car is constantly surging and shaking during light acceleration. I was leaning towards MAP but it can't be that or I should have gotten a code. Is it the TPS cuz if it is that m*****f***** is replaced first thing tomorrow! If it's the IAC, why is it surging during light acceleration? I need help!
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Had enough of this idling problem...
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Hey you may just have to keep it running longer so the computer can re-learn. I had some un-hooked evaparator hoses once. When I hooked them back up my car ran like hell trying to stall and shit. But my mechanic told me just to drive it until the computer reset. It went away after about an hour of straight driving.
Lyle
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Hmmm, well I've driven for at least six hours since I did the relearn. The low idling is starting to go away, still can't keep running on a warm start unless I gas it for a few seconds. I think it's like Ben said the idle on the stock chip is set too low for cam timing, but that doesn't explain the shaking when accelerating. It jerks so voilently sometimes I can hear the suspension groan! That's gotta be a sensor or something. Fix a hose and change a chip, I can't see those two things causing this.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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you can't manually change the idle unless you are a a certain monte carlo owner who likes to argue that you can. The computer regulates idle to the best of its abilty, via the idle air controlling and spark timing. The idle throttle stop is often mistaken for an idle set screw. Its only job is for the plate to stop via hitting it instead of jamming itself against the inside of the throttlebody.
Limp home mode is meant for when the rest of the prom chip is bad. It is simply a set of resistor packs that allow the engine to run and thats about it, as it runs like total ass.Ben
60DegreeV6.com
WOT-Tech.com
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Get a new set of plugs and wires. If not maybe the DIS is messed up, either the coil(s) or the module. pull the spark plugs to see what's not firing.Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"
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Ok, I put Ben's chip back in, that took care of the warm start idling, but it still is killing on me once in a while at stop lights. Probably time for new plugs and wires. Question: Do Rapidfire #8s come with the right gap stock for the 3.4? I think it's .045 but could be wrong.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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Originally posted by OldSkoolGPOk, I put Ben's chip back in, that took care of the warm start idling, but it still is killing on me once in a while at stop lights. Probably time for new plugs and wires. Question: Do Rapidfire #8s come with the right gap stock for the 3.4? I think it's .045 but could be wrong.
Cliff Scott
89 BerettaGT
89 Volvo740Cliff Scott
89 BerettaGT
04 AleroGX
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alternator might be going, does it have a volt meter? is it fluxing when you tap the brakes? at stop lights it might be the fans kicking on and the volt regulator is toast so it kills the engine.93 Z34 Auto (old, dead, slow, in peices)
91 GTP 5spd (older, faster, better)
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Well now I've narrowed it down to either needing an idle relearn or the intake gasket. Last time I had a bad intake gasket it caused the einge to rev higher and the IAC had a damnable time bringing it down. I haven't heard of a bad one causing lower revs and stalling, but it could be the culprit to because I had to take the manifold off to fix a bad MAP hose, I had a fairly new gasket to replace the old one but it could be bad. I guess, anyone ever had low revving problems due to an intake gasket?I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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