External Crank Trigger

[Z2_4cams]

as for the L body mount thing.

the trigger will bolt to one hole that uses the dogbone bracket and one that will not.
Instead of using spacers for everything. I think the best route is to trim one of the "legs".
I have a trigger in my hands and I'll get pics tomorrow.

[CNCguy]

as for the L body mount thing.

the trigger will bolt to one hole that uses the dogbone bracket and one that will not.
Instead of using spacers for everything. I think the best route is to trim one of the "legs".
I have a trigger in my hands and I'll get pics tomorrow.

Trimming one leg would be the best way to go. Just a little bit more work but will keep things nice and close. If you have access to a milling machine, it would only take a couple of minutes to mill it off. Perhaps a local machine shop would do it at a reasonable cost.

If you can, please let me know how much has to come off.

[Z2_4cams]

I will definately get you some measurements and the whatnot.

btw these pieces are so well designed and sexy it's a shame you don't really get to see them once they're on the motor.

[Superdave]

I will definately get you some measurements and the whatnot.

btw these pieces are so well designed and sexy it's a shame you don't really get to see them once they're on the motor.

I'll get some measurements as well since it won't fit right in a Jbody setup because of the rear mount.

Also my wider FFP pully might need to be machined down a little to get everything to line up. If i had a stock 3400 pully i'd try that but i threw my stockers away. And the 3500 sure won't work

[Superdave]

Here is my little tidbit of info...

3x00 block with a rear Jbody engine mount (Cavalier/Sunbird) and a FFP underdrive pully.

here is the first problem. FFP's holes aren't in the same location as a stock pully. The holes are off about 1/8" or so...



I came up with a fix for this, the FFP pully will have to be modified and i'll post pics of that tomorrow.

With the TCE setup bolted ontop of the Jbody rear mount it provides perfect alignment of the 7x wheel and the CPS while ontop of the FFP pully as seen here:



and here you can see the rear Jbody mount etc...

[wasas9]

sweet.

[Superdave]

well, screw it. i'm going to use the stock 3400 pully. I got quoted $150 for the machine work to make the FFP pully work. Not worth the few HP gain

[93ztwo4]

hummm so dave will this clear the frame rail where the back mount is?

[Superdave]

hummm so dave will this clear the frame rail where the back mount is?

not sure yet, it looks like it though.

maybe this weekend i'll drop the engine in there and check on that...

[93ztwo4]

^ that would ba awsome since i gave a 3500 liked up but need to know this

[wasas9]

hey dave why dont you just make 3 new holes in the underdrive yourself. Get yourself a a protractor, 360*/3 = 120* is the center of each hole, then just drill them out...

[CNCguy]

hey dave why dont you just make 3 new holes in the underdrive yourself. Get yourself a a protractor, 360*/3 = 120* is the center of each hole, then just drill them out...

If you rotate holes in the pulley, you must also put new holes in the reluctor wheel. The orientation between the crank and reluctor must not change or the timing will change. Changing the hole location by 20 degrees would change the base timing by the same amount.

Dave
If you can live with the stock dampner for a while, I will trade you one of the new design reluctors when we make them. They will mount differently and should work with the UDP. We will be making the new ones sometime in late January.

[Superdave]

If you rotate holes in the pulley, you must also put new holes in the reluctor wheel. The orientation between the crank and reluctor must not change or the timing will change. Changing the hole location by 20 degrees would change the base timing by the same amount.

Dave
If you can live with the stock dampner for a while, I will trade you one of the new design reluctors when we make them. They will mount differently and should work with the UDP. We will be making the new ones sometime in late January.

Actually, i was going to PM you and offer to send you my UDP and trigger wheel to see if you could make it fit.

my idea was to cut in a new keyway 180° in the UDP... then use a lathe to make a .010" - .020" inset for the trigger wheel (to keep it centered).. then just drill/tap 3 new holes for the wheel.


but yah, that sounds cool. I doubt mine will be running by then.


shoot me a PM and lemmie know if you want to borrow the UDP


Dave

[RacerX11]

I have an UDP available as well that is not being used. Lemme know if it is needed.

[gectek]

ok so the trigger is for the 3500 crank because it has a diff setup that eliminates the in block sensor for the lobe on the crank is that right?