so i went to install the crank on my engine and i put the studs in, and threaded them all the way and hand tightened them like they should be. i put the main cap on and there isnt enough thread for the cap threads. theres about a 1/4 of thread that should be there, and im not going to washer the main caps so i dont run out of thread. help...... i need this fixed asap, im moving and i have to put my engine together!!!
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main stud kit problems
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12.268@117... 11's to come!
turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720Tags: None
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Did you align bore/hone the mains? You need to do this with the mains and studs first, and I would imagine this problem would come up at that point instead of final assembly.
Can you take a picture? I don't understand "im not going to washer the main caps so i dont run out of thread."Ben
60DegreeV6.com
WOT-Tech.com
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yes, it was line bored. ill snap a picture of it quick for you. all 8 studs are like this. even with the windage tray installed and the washers sent with the kit, there still isnt enough thread. my engine guy told me that they weren't the right size when i got the engine back. he had used washers to do it, but i dont want to use washers on an expensive arp kit that should fit right..
Last edited by MidnightriderZ24; 04-23-2008, 01:44 AM.[SIGPIC]
12.268@117... 11's to come!
turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720
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I had the same problem with mine, but my machinest said he can drill down a little further into the block to allow the studs to screw in further.98 camaro swapping in lz9 th400 setup
LZ9 specs: (Subject to Change work in progress)
4.0L(after bore 3.917 and stroke 3.3485),carrillo sbc rods(narrowed),wiseco custom forged pistons 8.5:1 CR, TCE Double Roller timing chain, gen 3 cam, P&P heads, headers 1 3/4 primaries into 3-1 collector, and going to run ms2.
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I know why I didn't catch this now. I used the 3500 block to test fit these, as that was my initial intent. I never thought to check the 3400 block. I will be doing this shortly. It isn't as bad as the 3400, but there is about 1 turn missing. The second picture is with the prototype crank scraper, which makes up the thickness on the one side of the mains.
2 washers (or 1 thicker washer if I can find it) is what it will take for the 3500.Ben
60DegreeV6.com
WOT-Tech.com
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My machinest wasn't too happy with the 2 washer idea, but subsituting for a thicker washer should work. I am pretty sure arp makes a thicker washer then whats used with the current stud kit.98 camaro swapping in lz9 th400 setup
LZ9 specs: (Subject to Change work in progress)
4.0L(after bore 3.917 and stroke 3.3485),carrillo sbc rods(narrowed),wiseco custom forged pistons 8.5:1 CR, TCE Double Roller timing chain, gen 3 cam, P&P heads, headers 1 3/4 primaries into 3-1 collector, and going to run ms2.
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well now i have more problems... the stud sticks out about 3/8'' to 1/2'' too much out of the cap, and i cannot bolt the oil pump back on. i didnt think it would be a problem since i added 3 hardend washers so the bolt would have thread to tighten. i cant cut threads off the top since then i would be cutting the allen head of the stud off and i wouldnt be able to screw the stud in. im pretty pissed now since i was ready to put the pump on and get the pan on and drop the engine in. i dont really want to clearance the pump and fubar it up...im kinda upset since i paid $150.00 then bought $20 worth of hardend washers now i have MORE problems.... ANY IDEAS?
pix: http://s433.photobucket.com/albums/q...0308091649.jpg
Last edited by MidnightriderZ24; 03-08-2009, 07:50 PM.[SIGPIC]
12.268@117... 11's to come!
turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720
Comment
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The best answer I could come up with in this case is to remove the one stud that's interfering with the oil pump and install the OE bolt in that location. The only other thing to do is locate and purchase a shorter stud from an outside soarce - or call ARP and have one over-nighted that's the proper size/length. D
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none, i actually had to cut the threads down awhile ago since i didnt want to stack 3-4 washers to get the studs to work..this was the only stud i cut threads off, it was a pain in the ass to cut them and make sure they were a clean thread. as for grinding the oil pump, if u look at the picture its going to require alot of grinding with my die grinder.[SIGPIC]
12.268@117... 11's to come!
turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720
Comment
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Originally posted by SappySE107 View PostYou only need 1 washer on the side with the crank scraper. I just installed your setup on my test block and at most you need to grind for 5 seconds using a hand file to give a little more room between the nut and the oil pump.Last edited by MidnightriderZ24; 03-09-2009, 12:48 AM.[SIGPIC]
12.268@117... 11's to come!
turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720
Comment
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mine is a 3400 as well. i dont see how one washer would work, during torquing, the whole stud was turning, not the nut. i put 2 on the side with the scraper and 3 on the other side. the windage tray also helped.[SIGPIC]
12.268@117... 11's to come!
turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720
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