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  • main stud kit problems

    so i went to install the crank on my engine and i put the studs in, and threaded them all the way and hand tightened them like they should be. i put the main cap on and there isnt enough thread for the cap threads. theres about a 1/4 of thread that should be there, and im not going to washer the main caps so i dont run out of thread. help...... i need this fixed asap, im moving and i have to put my engine together!!!
    [SIGPIC]
    12.268@117... 11's to come!
    turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
    ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720

  • #2
    Did you align bore/hone the mains? You need to do this with the mains and studs first, and I would imagine this problem would come up at that point instead of final assembly.

    Can you take a picture? I don't understand "im not going to washer the main caps so i dont run out of thread."
    Ben
    60DegreeV6.com
    WOT-Tech.com

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    • #3
      yes, it was line bored. ill snap a picture of it quick for you. all 8 studs are like this. even with the windage tray installed and the washers sent with the kit, there still isnt enough thread. my engine guy told me that they weren't the right size when i got the engine back. he had used washers to do it, but i dont want to use washers on an expensive arp kit that should fit right..

      Last edited by MidnightriderZ24; 04-23-2008, 01:44 AM.
      [SIGPIC]
      12.268@117... 11's to come!
      turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
      ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720

      Comment


      • #4
        Ah, ok now it makes more sense. Washers are all I can think of right now. Not sure why I didn't have this issue but I will think about it more tomorrow. Im going to sleep.
        Ben
        60DegreeV6.com
        WOT-Tech.com

        Comment


        • #5
          I had the same problem with mine, but my machinest said he can drill down a little further into the block to allow the studs to screw in further.
          98 camaro swapping in lz9 th400 setup
          LZ9 specs: (Subject to Change work in progress)
          4.0L(after bore 3.917 and stroke 3.3485),carrillo sbc rods(narrowed),wiseco custom forged pistons 8.5:1 CR, TCE Double Roller timing chain, gen 3 cam, P&P heads, headers 1 3/4 primaries into 3-1 collector, and going to run ms2.

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          • #6
            I know why I didn't catch this now. I used the 3500 block to test fit these, as that was my initial intent. I never thought to check the 3400 block. I will be doing this shortly. It isn't as bad as the 3400, but there is about 1 turn missing. The second picture is with the prototype crank scraper, which makes up the thickness on the one side of the mains.

            2 washers (or 1 thicker washer if I can find it) is what it will take for the 3500.
            Attached Files
            Ben
            60DegreeV6.com
            WOT-Tech.com

            Comment


            • #7
              My machinest wasn't too happy with the 2 washer idea, but subsituting for a thicker washer should work. I am pretty sure arp makes a thicker washer then whats used with the current stud kit.
              98 camaro swapping in lz9 th400 setup
              LZ9 specs: (Subject to Change work in progress)
              4.0L(after bore 3.917 and stroke 3.3485),carrillo sbc rods(narrowed),wiseco custom forged pistons 8.5:1 CR, TCE Double Roller timing chain, gen 3 cam, P&P heads, headers 1 3/4 primaries into 3-1 collector, and going to run ms2.

              Comment


              • #8
                well now i have more problems... the stud sticks out about 3/8'' to 1/2'' too much out of the cap, and i cannot bolt the oil pump back on. i didnt think it would be a problem since i added 3 hardend washers so the bolt would have thread to tighten. i cant cut threads off the top since then i would be cutting the allen head of the stud off and i wouldnt be able to screw the stud in. im pretty pissed now since i was ready to put the pump on and get the pan on and drop the engine in. i dont really want to clearance the pump and fubar it up...im kinda upset since i paid $150.00 then bought $20 worth of hardend washers now i have MORE problems.... ANY IDEAS?

                pix: http://s433.photobucket.com/albums/q...0308091649.jpg
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                Last edited by MidnightriderZ24; 03-08-2009, 07:50 PM.
                [SIGPIC]
                12.268@117... 11's to come!
                turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
                ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720

                Comment


                • #9
                  The best answer I could come up with in this case is to remove the one stud that's interfering with the oil pump and install the OE bolt in that location. The only other thing to do is locate and purchase a shorter stud from an outside soarce - or call ARP and have one over-nighted that's the proper size/length. D

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    How many bottom threads are sticking out of the block with no cap on?
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                    • #11
                      You only need 1 washer on the side with the crank scraper. I just installed your setup on my test block and at most you need to grind for 5 seconds using a hand file to give a little more room between the nut and the oil pump.
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        none, i actually had to cut the threads down awhile ago since i didnt want to stack 3-4 washers to get the studs to work..this was the only stud i cut threads off, it was a pain in the ass to cut them and make sure they were a clean thread. as for grinding the oil pump, if u look at the picture its going to require alot of grinding with my die grinder.
                        [SIGPIC]
                        12.268@117... 11's to come!
                        turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
                        ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
                          You only need 1 washer on the side with the crank scraper. I just installed your setup on my test block and at most you need to grind for 5 seconds using a hand file to give a little more room between the nut and the oil pump.
                          i dont really want to call BS, but if u look at my first pictures, one washer WILL not work. i had to put 3, before i could actually tighten them. is there a difference between 3400 and 3500 caps? this is just a headache gettin these damn studs to be right..
                          Last edited by MidnightriderZ24; 03-09-2009, 12:48 AM.
                          [SIGPIC]
                          12.268@117... 11's to come!
                          turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
                          ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My test block is a 3400. Are you building a 3500? I can put that on the stand tomorrow and try that if need be. I can't even come close to needing 3 washers.
                            Ben
                            60DegreeV6.com
                            WOT-Tech.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              mine is a 3400 as well. i dont see how one washer would work, during torquing, the whole stud was turning, not the nut. i put 2 on the side with the scraper and 3 on the other side. the windage tray also helped.
                              [SIGPIC]
                              12.268@117... 11's to come!
                              turbo 3400: 358whp and 365tq at 9 psi
                              ASE Master Technician. GM Certified.
                              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ibU1k8UZoo
                              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqJyopd720

                              Comment

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