3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[fasteddi]

Updates. I got a throttle cable, works good, almost too long like you guys said but the pull is nice and smooth from in the car.

Got a radiator over the weekend that has the correct in and out positions and mounted that and the external trans cooler.

I hooked up the fuel lines and checked for leaks while the fuel pump was primed. No leaks and held good pressure. I also checked to make sure each one of the sensors i extended worked on tunerpro and they do.

Im still unsure if the tv cable will reach or not. Tad cold out to crawl under the car for that task over the past weekend. I have a nice big garage but its got a stone floor and is uninsulated... Anyone run a 7004 with this set up and have any insite on what i may run into?

Heres my list of things to do still:
Finish the merge pipe and weld in the wastegate flange
Notch my reluctor wheel/mount the cps
Hook up the vac lines and block off the egr.
Get the alt mounted and make a bracket for it so that it can be adjusted to the proper tention.
Toss the trans and hopefully that cable will fit.
And also tap that hole next to the T stat housing for my single wire coolent sensor for my stock guage. For some reason I dont have a 1/2 inch tap. Have the bushing though.... Just my luck.

[caffeine]

3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

Nice!

I would PM Superdave regarding the 700r4 TV cable setup since he's the only one I can think of that's done it.

[1QUICKHATCH]

looks good! did you have any work done on the iron heads to get in the 12's? It shoud be moving this year!

[fasteddi]

Thanks

I ported/polished the heads and also deshrouded them the best I could.

[Superdave]

Stock TV cable isn't going to work for sure with that cable bracket. I don't know of one that's long enough.


I used a LS1 75mm TB on mine which was set up to pull to the rear, even then i had to make a custom bracket for the throttle and TV cable to work. I also had to make my own arm and weld it to the TB to get the correct pull on the TV cable, then use parts from a throttle cable kit. Was a pain in the ass.. lol

[fasteddi]

I had good feeling that it wasent even going to be close. Ill have to work on it sunday and hopefully figure out what will work. Those pics help. Thanks.

[Superdave]

The longest stock RWD one i can think of would be one from a 350 TPI, maybe something from a FWD trans like the TH125 or 440T4 would work?


this page will help a lot if you have to go custom: http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm

the diagrams linked there are very important.


*edit

Here are some 60" long cables, not cheap but i'd imagine them to be plenty long.. lol

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/automatic-transmission-kickdown-cables/transmission-make/gm/transmission-type/700r4/cable-length-in/60-000-in?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending

[caffeine]

3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

If something from a FWD app will work, a Fiero cable is probably very long.

Edit: or maybe I'm thinking of the shift cable

[Guest]

I see two options:

Look for a Quad4 TV/throttle cable cam system that some of the 660 swappers use in the J-body.

OR

Swap to a 4L60E, and get rid of the TV cable, can be run off a 16197427 PCM from mid '90s GM trucks.

[fasteddi]

Actually the TV is close. Its arround 35 inches in sheath length.

[fasteddi]

Ok heres where im at as I tried to start up the car today.

No fuel or spark!!


For the ignition module. I have:

The 2 wire connector +12vdc on a pink on and ground on the black. With the key on. This ground is shared with the cars/engine ground at least on a meter.

The CPS sensor seems to be recognizing a signal and producing Ac current. From .3ish volts to a bit over 1 vts

My 6 wire connector I have the red and black (f) ground also but this ground is not with the engine ground. Ecm ground I would guess.
White is the ecm control
tan and black is the 5 vt reference
Purple is fuel control
Tan is the 5vts above 400 rpm

Any help fells as it seems like my ignition module is either bad (but worked on my impala) Or i killed it from wiring it wrong??

Running code 59. All i changed was the ref spark, the max advance and max retard. Set the base to 10* ish base timing.

[Maverick H1L]

Did you connect the purple REF HI wire to the purple wire at the distributor harness connector? If not, that is why you have a problem.

Wiring should be:
RED/BLK to BLK/RED
WHT to WHT (EST wire)
WHT to WHT (TACH wire, comes from original ignition coil wire harness connector, same as PNK power wire)
PPL/WHT to PPL/WHT
TAN/BLK to TAN/BLK

Make sure you have the white wires connected correctly. One is the EST wire and the other one is the TACH wire. The one in B is the EST wire.

Are you absolutely positive you have cut the notches for your timing wheel correctly? If you recall, that was the problem that left me scratching my head for 4 months last year.

[fasteddi]

Still no spark or injector pulse!


Ok pics of the reluc wheel are attatched and Im using a 7x sensor off a 3.4L fbody.

The wheel is set so that it has 10* base timing and the sensor is ligned up to the trailing edge of the 1/4 notch with the stock timing mark showing 10*btdc on cyl 1.

The sync notch 10 degrees after the 1/4 notch.

Max advance of 0*
refernce angle of 70*
max retard of -60 all set in the bin.

Wiring is this as I've literly spent 3-4 hrs rechecking and rechecking and i think im starting to go nuts... I just want it to fire.

CPS is purple and yellow. (I also tried to reverse them and still no spark)

The 2 plug is termial A system/chassis ground and B is the 12vts+ Pink is hot.

The 6 plug is: All matching colors but there is no tach output on the dis plug as the car it was on did not have a tach. So i didn't splice that in yet. My tach wire is just taped up and sitting right now.

I messed with the position of the sensor some more and I constantly get the same .3xx to .8xx volt ac varriation as the sensor sees the notches come and go. I also ohmed out the sensor and get arround 900 ohms which i believe is normal even though the sensor is new i wanted to make sure it checked out ok.

The cps sensor is about 1 or 2 playing cards away from the wheel so it is very close. Mabey too close?

Is there anything else im missing? Could the module be bad? It was good on the impala last time it ran.

I tried just tapping the sensor on metal constantly with a rythem but still no spark. I tried it without the ecm attached and still nothing, not a hint of spark. I tried alot of things today and failed so im a tad bummed out. But hopefully i can get it going soon.

[Maverick H1L]

Well, first off, the rule: "No spark, No squirt". If there isn't any spark, it's a good bet your ECM isn't seeing any reference pulses, so it won't pulse the injectors.

Your wheel looks okay to me, provided it's timed right in relation to the #1/4 pistons.

The sensor is good... I seem to remember getting numbers somewhere like that when I was having my issues. And the gap is good as well, about the same as mine.

Just to be sure, terminal B in the 2-pin connector should be your 12V source.

Pull the ignition module and make 100% sure it works on the other car. If not, I have a spare I can send.

[fasteddi]

I have 12+ at terminal B and just went to make sure of it. A is the ground.

I dont have another car to check with the icm but i will see if AZ will test it and see if its ok.