3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[Guest]

I'm fully aware he's trying to use the outer edge of the PULLEY as the timing ring. I saw the earlier pics. Which is why I'm suggesting to use the outer edge of the DAMPER as the ring.

What's funny is TCE sells their external CKP kits WITH THE NOTCHES MACHINED IN THE OUTER RING OF THE DAMPER. And what's also funny is I bought one and have NO timing issues. Well, once I fixed their mistake (they mounted the damper to the fixture upside down and completely screwed it up).

AND IT'S A DAMPER AND NOT A BALANCER. THE DAMPER HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ENGINE BALANCE. IF THE ENGINE IS EXTERNALLY BALANCED, THE WEIGHT IS GENERALLY ON THE FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE. THE CORRECT TERM FOR THE THING IS "TORSIONAL DAMPER".

*sigh*

"Harmonic balancer", Not "engine balancer"...

Just because TCE does it, does not make it a good idea. You will NEVER see anyone else do this, OEMs, or major aftermarket manufacturers.

Learn what an harmonic balancer is and how it works and then you might see why it's a bad idea and can cause unstable timing issues. I'll give you a hint: the outer ring moves differently than the the inner part of the harmonic balancer, and absorbs the shocks to the crankshaft that are created by each cylinder firing event. Ok, that was more than just a hint, but using notches on an harmonic balancer is a really bad idea. The other issue is the outer ring ever slips, which is not uncommon, the timing will then be off, causing the car to not even be able to limp home. With a proper trigger wheel the car can at least be driven home or to a repair shop.

[fasteddi]

Ideas on a ring then? I cannot find anyone localy that will make me one up and to be honest i dont wana screw one up making on myself. Could someone on here make me a reluctor ring up?

[Canyonero]

36-1 (missing tooth) trigger wheels seem to be the aftermarket standard. Interested in running megasquirt? I googled and it looks like some people have run batches of 6+1 wheels, but I haven't been able to find anywhere you can just purchase one from a store. Maybe someone would share a CAM file that you can take to a local shop with a laser or water-jet cutter.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/trigger-wheels-c-48.html

[Guest]

Ideas on a ring then? I cannot find anyone localy that will make me one up and to be honest i dont wana screw one up making on myself. Could someone on here make me a reluctor ring up?

If I couldn't make one, I'd likely use the trigger wheel from this kit: http://www.britishcarconversions.com...category_id=28

I'd want to find a good way to secure it to keep it from spinning, and not rely on just the center bolt to do this.

It may require drilling out the center and/or a different bolt and probably some spacers to fit, but it's the best option IMO, next to making a custom one.

There is also this kit, that is meant to be placed on a 3500 crank internally, so I think it might be a bit large, but if it's the right size, it could be welded to the outside of a crank pulley. You would need to find/take some measurements to be sure. http://www.britishcarconversions.com...category_id=28

[Superdave]

I had one of the FWD trigger rings sandwiched between the damper and the pulley. It was drilled/tapped into the outer ring which was not ideal but it worked great.

If I had to do it all over again i'd have welded it to the back of the pulley instead.

here was mine: http://www.sdsgarage.com/Misc/Camaro...ngattached.jpg

[3400-95-Modified]

Last I checked, and I have one... TCE does not sell a modified dampener... they sell a fully trigger ring that bolts to the front of the dampener using the key way to align it and the standard bolt to hold it to the crank.

[Superdave]

I think Marc was notching the RWD dampers at one point, I don't know if it was ever sold as a regular production part though.


There was someone on TGO selling trigger wheels a few years ago, can't remember the username though.

[Guest]

TCE, or at least I believe TCE is the supplier sells modified harmonic balancers/dampers/choose your name through British Car Conversions/Killer Bee V6. I still don't recommend this approach, due to the unstable trigger signal and the possible issues that could happen.

http://www.britishcarconversions.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=136&category_id=28

[3400-95-Modified]

Oh wow, that's news to me, And I agree with your disapproval of it. I have the FWD kit, I assumed they would have been the same.

[fasteddi]

So this one here: http://www.britishcarconversions.com...category_id=28

Just sits in front of the crank pulley and uses the main bolt to hold it on? What i mean is that the belt alignment would not have to be changed from what i currently have? I would just shim it out so that it lines up nicely with the front of the crank pulley.

Sounds like this would be a good one for me. I could always figure out a way to hold it on there better then the one bolt but this will be the option I like the most and the one I get.

I almost got a harmonic/bal notched one back a few months ago but did not like the idea of it being on the outer ring either. Not something i want to have more problems with down the road.


Thanks a ton for all the help here!

[Guest]

So this one here: http://www.britishcarconversions.com...category_id=28

Just sits in front of the crank pulley and uses the main bolt to hold it on? What i mean is that the belt alignment would not have to be changed from what i currently have? I would just shim it out so that it lines up nicely with the front of the crank pulley.

Sounds like this would be a good one for me. I could always figure out a way to hold it on there better then the one bolt but this will be the option I like the most and the one I get.

I almost got a harmonic/bal notched one back a few months ago but did not like the idea of it being on the outer ring either. Not something i want to have more problems with down the road.


Thanks a ton for all the help here!

Yes, keep in mind that is meant as a FWD kit, most commonly used with the 3500, so the bracket for the CPS will not work for you, and the trigger wheel itself may need some modification, but that is how I would set this particular trigger wheel up, in front of the crank pulley. I just don't want to give a false sense of a quick fix here. It may adapt really easy, but I am not going to guarantee it. I think it's very do-able though.

[caffeine]

It won't bolt on top of the crank pulley since the flange on the FWD trigger isn't deep enough. The best thing to do is probably what superdave did and sandwich it between the pulley and balancer.

On my 3500 the FWD trigger wheel was welded to the back of an ASP underdrive pulley

[Guest]

It won't bolt on top of the crank pulley since the flange on the FWD trigger isn't deep enough. The best thing to do is probably what superdave did and sandwich it between the pulley and balancer.

On my 3500 the FWD trigger wheel was welded to the back of an ASP underdrive pulley

But a spacer could likely be used to support that middle part.

[caffeine]

But then it wouldn't have the balancer keyway to align with anymore. However it should work for a while at least.

[Guest]

Is that how that trigger wheel gets aligned/retained?

That would be why I mentioned finding a way to keep the trigger wheel in position.