3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[fasteddi]

I though i would start a thread here since i may have some "dumb" questions here and there. Im hoping i can find most of the info to do my new project but we all know how that can go.

The project:

I have a 1991 3.1L Camaro. Its a pretty good engine and has gotting me into the 12's at the race track a few times this year. But i recently condemed a 2002 impala that I have. Its got 210k miles on it so its time for it to be taken off the road while it still moves.

So what i plan to do is the hybrid swap. I plan to get new 3100 pistons and rings and hopefully the 3.1L block is still good at the shop and only needs honed out for the new rings and pistons.

I was running a $59 mask on a 7730 ecm. I really like the $59 mask alot as Ive been using it for about 2 years now. The DIS scares me a tad as im not very educated on it but im willing to learn and look up as much info as i can.

I run a Gt3582 turbo and on the high 12 second passes it was at 13 Psi. Also im running 100% alky injection.

Really that's about as far as i've gotten so far as I still need to tear down the impala. The camaro is on blocks for the winter anyways and is torn down already.

My goal would be to get to 12.00 or in the upper 11's when all said and done. Hopefully i can make that happen.

Thanks for any help in advance, hopefully this will be a positive learning experience.

[fasteddi]

1st dumb question: What is the best way to block off the distributor opening on the block? Does anyone make such a product or do I have to fab up a cover plate? Also how would i go about having the oil pump turn since the dizzy use to do that? I was thinking of some sort of dummy dizzy but still am not sure how it would work on this 3.1L block.

[bszopi]

Just grab the drive gear from a non-distributor engine, like a 3100. It is everything you are looking for.

Brad
via Moto X

[Guest]

Just grab the drive gear from a non-distributor engine, like a 3100. It is everything you are looking for.

Brad
via Moto X

Exactly this. ^^

This is what I used on my Franken60 years ago.

The way to think about this is you will basically end up with gen3, that just happens to have a genI block, so any of the parts the parts that are different in the genIII will end up being installed on your block, the only exceptions are the oil pan, front cover and... umm, not much else that I can think of off hand.

[fasteddi]

Ok thanks for the tips. Looking forward to digging into the project today.

[Maverick H1L]

You will need to go to British Car Conversions and pick up an external 7x crank sensor kit and a Camaro 3.4 7x sensor (because they couldn't possibly use the $10 sensor and HAD to use the $40 one for the kit...). And you will also require a Camaro 3.4 alternator/A/C compressor bracket, and an A/C delete pulley if you wish (I've gotten away without the pulley so far but I'm not holding my breath for too much longer as the belt is just barely good enough except at higher speeds and high power steering pressures). And, of course, custom length pushrods.

If you need ignition parts other than the coil/module bracket, I have some extras (one set of coils and 2 modules). The lower end of the 7x sensor wire in the Impala will be easier to reach when you get the heads off as it's very low in the back of the block.

[fasteddi]

Is this kit the one I should be using? Looks as if its pretty straight foward. Using a AZ sensor to compare, It doesn't look like it fits on the bracket from BCC very well?

Kit: http://britishcarconversions.com/com...category_id=28

sensor: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...8779_726191_0_

I think I have all the ignition items ill need else then the DIS conversions stuff. But im sure as the build goes forward i find that I dont...

[Maverick H1L]

Trust me, the FWD 7x sensor is TOO SHORT, by about a half inch. The sensor goes into the bracket, but you will need to pull the mounting ring off and rotate it on the sensor approximately 90* or the belt may cut the 7x wiring. You will also need to lengthen the 7x wiring a few inches to accomodate the fact that the sensor isn't a straight drop down the side of the block any more (actually, you can get away with the wiring as is but it MAY need to be lengthened a bit).

Also, I told you to use the Camaro 3.4 alternator bracket... ONLY if you want to make your own bracket for the 7x sensor. The alternator bracket covers the upper mounting hole for the BCC 7x bracket and its bolt goes into the bottom one. I took a piece of old road sign aluminum and made my own bracket (slight offset from where it should be but it's running fine). If you do choose to go with the 3.4 alternator bracket, I would recommend to skip the BCC kit altogether as they only cut notches into the outer ring of the damper anyways (which is why I needed the one you had for sale since they screwed up their damper and I cut my spare wrong), which you can do with a grinding wheel on a grinder. And then you can put the 7x wherever you need to.

:edit: But DO buy the BCC thermostat housing. And, now that I've looked at the AutoZone link, the one you have linked is the 24x, which is for the ECM ONLY. You need the other one with the 2-prong plug (long cylinder with a plug on the end and a metal pin on the other).

There are other small things too, depending on what you do and don't choose to retain...

[fasteddi]

You just saved me a ton of headache. Id rather just make my own bracket for the cost savings if i don't mess it up as I only have one damper left. I would assume that there are 6 equal spread notches on the damper. Is there a distance between the damper and the sensor that is crutial? Do I just aim for 1/4" gap or get it as close to the damper as i can without it hitting? Thanks again!

[Maverick H1L]

Well, you see those 3 notches in the outer ring of the damper? Those need to be made 1/4" wide (otherwise you will need to fill them with some metal to avoid confusing the module and start from scratch). And then you add 3 between them (every 60* around the perimeter). Keeping in mind that the damper is at TDC with the keyway UP, place the 7th sync notch 10* away from the notch you choose to be the #1 cylinder, I believe it's counterclockwise, but I'll have to check.

Wheel pic here: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/v6...rong-your.html

Oh, and, literally, put the 7x sensor about the width of a folded playing card away from the trigger wheel. Think of an ignition coil in a lawn mower... Almost the same deal.

[caffeine]

For the crank sensor mount it's probably easiest to build the mount a bit closer than necessary and just shim as necessary. I know when I build things they rarely come out perfectly the first try .

[caffeine]

And if you're building your own you might as well use the FWD sensor since it's apparently cheaper and sends the same signal.

[fasteddi]

That's a great write up, I'm not sure how I missed that one since it was on TGO. Makes sense to me. You definitely answered all the questions i had about the DIS conversion. Thanks

[fasteddi]

Made some progress today working on the Impala. Went pretty well. But tearing stuff apart usually does. Next step it to get the Camaro block out and get it ready for new pistons.

Any suggestions on what springs I should get for the heads? I run up to 6500Rpm at the racetrack with a delta 260 grind cam. I just don't want to run into valve float. Would some Ls1 behi. stockers be ok and take the abuse? Or can I still use the comp cams stuff I have on my gen 1 heads. Those springs, retain, and locks are fresh and Id love to use them!

http://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1460154_681618888525842_1895688513_n.jpg

[Superdave]

You should be able to use the Comp springs with your locks and retainers from the Gen 1 heads (guessing they are standard springs and not beehives).

Just make sure you have enough valve tip exposed so that the rocker doesn't rub the retainer.