Plans for L32/3X00 Hybrid

[ForcedFirebird]

Max, the only thing that's not optimal on your cam is is lift with what aluminum heads allow.

[tkoforpresident]

Great, then I'll stick with it.

[tkoforpresident]

And that's awesome because now I don't have to take off the flywheel cover, crank pulley, harmonic balancer, TCC, Waterpump/pulley, Cam, lifters, oil gear drive.. etc.

This is assuming of course, that I will be able to modify the TCC tab while it is still in the engine bay.

[ForcedFirebird]

You can, but it's easier off the car.

[tkoforpresident]

what method do you suggest to take the tab off? Grind it off or cut it off with a dremel perhaps?

[tkoforpresident]

My research has now confirmed that the injectors that come on the desired fuel rail (00+ 3400 ) came with 22.5# rated injectors (albeit, at a higher fpr psi somewhere around 55 iirc)

I'm tempted to say that will suffice but there are two things hindering me.

1. according to Brad's rule of thumb If i went with 22.5# injectors that would be good for around 225hp, but I'm hoping to make more than that with the new setup.

2. With tuning now possible, it doesn't really matter what size I get.

But then again, having to buy new injectors means more $ spent so...

Decisions decisions.

[ForcedFirebird]

With the timing cover off, you can use an angle grinder or Dremel cut-off wheel if you have time on your hands, but fastest and neatest way I have found is a band/jig saw.

[Joseph Upson]

You don't have to buy new injectors, keep your stock rail and injectors and purchase an adjustable bypass fuel pressure regulator like I did and convert your system to returnless by adapting the stock fuel lines to the regulator and connecting it to the rail. It only involves the necessary fittings to do it which you should be able to get from Home Depot or, if you really want it to look nice you can buy braided steel hose with the fittings from Ebay which I did recently for a pretty reasonable price. I'm very happy with the merchandise and it was pretty easy to put the hose and ends together.

I purchased the Mallory 4305M 30-100 psi adjustable unit. It'll set you back about $100 but it's adjustable so it'll give you some range as well as keep your fuel cooler.

Seller: getfast1

http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Dynamics-Speed-Shop/_i.html?_fsub=5

[tkoforpresident]

You don't have to buy new injectors, keep your stock rail and injectors and purchase an adjustable bypass fuel pressure regulator like I did and convert your system to returnless by adapting the stock fuel lines to the regulator and connecting it to the rail. It only involves the necessary fittings to do it which you should be able to get from Home Depot or, if you really want it to look nice you can buy braided steel hose with the fittings from Ebay which I did recently for a pretty reasonable price. I'm very happy with the merchandise and it was pretty easy to put the hose and ends together.

I purchased the Mallory 4305M 30-100 psi adjustable unit. It'll set you back about $100 but it's adjustable so it'll give you some range as well as keep your fuel cooler.

Seller: getfast1

http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-D...i.html?_fsub=5

Great info, thanks.

By upping the fuel pressure I should be able to get those injectors up into the 28# range I'd imagine. You are referring to a stock 3400 fuel rail right?

I'd rather stick with the returnable fuel system if I can. Is there an adj. fpr I can buy that doesn't require modification of the fuel rail??

[Joseph Upson]

I'm referring to the 3500 rail initially designed for returnless fuel delivery however, you can use whichever fuel rail you wish, you'll just have to close off the return at the rail if you use the non returnless design.

[tkoforpresident]

ah, Gotcha.

Well then maybe I should be looking for a 3400 fpr and keep the fuel return line since I've already got that in my firebird. I'm assuming that the aftermarket 3400 adj fpr's incorporated the fuel return line since that is what hte stock fuel rail incorportates but maybe switching to any fpr requires the blocking of the return line?

[tkoforpresident]

I've read multiple times now that RK Sport headers would be better for the 3x00 swap than my current pacesetters. Only problem is that I've never heard a good reason why.

If I can keep my stockers than that's a 500$ savings.


I will have to use the 3500 header gaskets (and maybe cut them for each port too)

but why the heck wouldn't I just stick with my pacesetters?


Also I've heard that the coolant passages in the aluminum heads are NOT the same as the iron heads. Is there any truth to this?

That's all I've got for now...

When I'm doing this I plan on doing a full comprehensive "write up" on how to do my particular swap into a 93-95 f-body so that people will once and for all have a step by step process with pictures.

[tkoforpresident]

OK so I've decided to stay with the pacesetter headers.

The only thing I could think of that would make the rksport headers better was if they had larger primaries but it turns out they are both 1.75"

so while it might take some gasket modification & drilling out larger holes to line up the headers with the heads I don't think I'll need new headers.

[tkoforpresident]

On that note does anybody know the size of the exhaust ports on the 3500 heads?

I'm wondering if my 1.75" will be sufficient.

Also, what do stock 3500 heads flow? I'm trying to figure out whether or not having them ported out would be necessary or not. If they flow as much as I think they do I might not need them to be ported. Maybe just gasket matched..

[tkoforpresident]

WOW...

221 CFM @ .500 !!!


and that's STOCK! OMGBBQ

compare that to 129 for the iron heads and 162 for the 3100's. yikes.