3500 Swap Finally Underway, a few questions

[jmgtp]

The extra front manifold would be beneficial in the regard that it would dump the exhaust down instead of straight out so I would gain some clearance. The downside to that is that it would dump it on the wrong side of the motor. I may take you up on your generous offer but I am going to see if I can work with what I have first.

I did cut the flange off the rear manifold and the plastic back from the firewall and I gained some room to breathe but not much. I'm going to do some cutting/welding today and see where I end up. With the flange off the manifold I think I can make a clear shot from the manifold right to the downpipe, the issue is that I need to merge in the crossover at a shallow angle so the exhaust pulses from the front bank flow downstream rather than crash into the pulses from the rear bank. I think this will be the challenge.

[jmgtp]

Well after a lot of cutting, measuring and mocking up I've decided the LX9 manifolds are just not feasible. The rear manifold is just not correct for a W car.

So, 3400 manifolds it is. If anyone has a set from a W body I'm interested.

[jmgtp]

I have on the way a set of 3x00 manifolds. The rear manifold dumps off to the side rather than center. It may not flow as well but it will line up more easily to the downpipe that I have.

I think I'll need a new upper/lower radiator hoses. My brother-in-law has a 3400 Impala that I will check out to see if the hoses from that car would work (then at least I know what to order).

I also need to find a brake booster hose and I still need the dogbone bracket that bolts to the cylinder head (driver side) as well as 2 dogbones and 1 more radiator support bracket.

Air box - I don't know where my stock 3.4 one but I think I'm done with cone filters and cold air intakes. Stock effective and quiet. I'm looking for torque and mpg, not all out horsepower. I'm assuming I can use an airbox from a ~94ish 3100 Grand Prix. The hard part may be finding a rubber tube that will fit the airbox on one end and the LQ1 TB at the other end. A stock LQ1 tube probably won't work because the throttlebody I believe is oriented differently.

[jmgtp]

Jon, I got the clutch alignment tool - thank you!

I havent touched the car in a few days. Got caught up fixing someone elses car, hurt my back a little in the process and I'm still waiting for UPS to waddle through the snow and deliver some parts.

I'm expecting (hopefully today) to receive my manifolds, crossover pipe and steering rack

[pocket-rocket]

Good deal. I was beginning to wonder if the USPS came through for you, lol.

UPS to waddle through the snow, lol. That's a good one.

[jmgtp]

Made some progress today.

Mounted the clutch to the flywheel and the getrag to the engine.

Also installed my 3x00 exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe. The ports on the manifolds seem to match the LX9 heads well but I notice the downpipe connection is not a ball and cone type and it seems a bit on the small side, I'd guess 2-2.25" I'm not sure if the smallish size of the manifold will hamper power much but I may end up welding a ball connection to the manifold just so it mates to my existing exhaust a little better.

Tomorrow I will install the 'new' steering rack and then hopefully drop the engine/trans into the cradle. From there on it will be accessories, wires, hoses, etc.

One questions... the below pic is the oil pressure sensor and I'm not sure if it is in the right place. There is no 'port' for it near the oil filter. The reason I put it there was because the LX9 came with a nearly identical sensor installed in that port, the connector was just a bit different, a 2 pin I believe. I think it is right and the 2 pin is for an idiot light whereas my GP has an oil pressure gauge.



And today's progress:

[Jonpro03]

You know, I can't answer that question about the oil pressure. I used that spot and I get a maxed out reading on my oil pressure gauge. But, I redid the wiring harness in my engine bay so I may have forgot to ground that sensor or something.

[jmgtp]

I guess the oil pressure sensor will be a wait and see.

I bought a new air compressor today. The 33gallon upright OIL-LESS Craftsman has just been killing me with its noise. Its always got the job done but I just couldn't take the sound anymore. I went with a 30 gallon, V-twin Kobalt from Lowes. It has good reviews, runs on 110/220 and most importantly it is oil lubricated and belt driven. That means it will not rattle your teeth out when it kicks on, most of the reviews did mention how quietly it runs.

Getrag 284 Question:
I remembered that I didn't snap the Getrags release bearing onto the pressure plate yet. Do I use a prybar through the inspection hole to apply pressure to the release fork? Does anyone know the correct method?

[pocket-rocket]

I stuck my finger behind the release fork and pulled towards the drivers side until I heard it snap into place. I take it you got it and the pressure plate separated?

[jmgtp]

Yes, I separted them using a snap ring plier to open up the snap ring. Once you get the tension off the ring it comes apart easily. I didn't even try to push it on by hand, I assumed it would require more force than that.

I had two clutches to choose from and both had the release bearing attached to the pressure plate. I didn't have a choice but to separate the bearing because I don't see any way to install other than to place the the release bearing on the trans input shaft collar with the fork already engaged. I went with the new (but used) clutch set. The pressure plate look less blued and the release bearing was not a greasy mess like the one I pulled out. The friction discs looked identical. The new clutch supposedly has less than 1k miles on it. The clutch I pulled out has over 60k on it but the friction material was not worn and seemed to be identically 'thick' when compared. I didn't bother to resurface the flywheel, it wasnt damaged other than some discoloration. I used some fine steel wool to clean it up and did the same for the pressure plate.

[1988GTU]

I think if you used two FRONT lx9 exhaust manifolds you would have had a lot more clearance space... But it is looking tight back there either way.
FRONT

[jmgtp]

The front LX9 manifold sticks out just about as far as the rear, it dumps the exhaust down instead of straight out, which would add some benefit. But it would also dump the exhaust on the wrong side. It just wasn't worth the hassle when the 3100/3400 stuff bolts right up. This is a DD not an all out power attempt. What I really want to see out of this car is good MPG, nice low end torque, and most importantly bullet proof reliability.

Progress today, engine and trans are bolted into the car.
Also found that the fitting on the air tube from the dohc motor threaded into the egr port on the 3x00 manifold. So I cut the pipe off, pinched it closed, welded it to prevent leaks, and threaded it in.

Now, its a matter of hoses, wires, axles, downpipe to manifold, plenum/injectors/throttlebody, etc. etc. etc.

[Jonpro03]

Speaking of wiring, what are you going to do for ECM and harness?

[jmgtp]

Well the LX9 being a 60v6 does accept the OBD I sensors which allows me to use my oringal ECM. The wire harness will also be reused tho I will need to rework it just a bit as the alternator is in a different location. Cncguy (marc) was kind enough to send me a basic LX9/5spd tune and I have the hardware/software to burn the program to the chip. It will still require tuning.

[jmgtp]

It's coming along... did some wiring last night for the fuel injection.

The 1 wire coolant sensor wiring reached just fine.
Starter, and grounds to bell housing no probs there.
Alternator wiring is all long enough to reach the alternator on the topside (vs the bottom like the DOHC).
I have the injectors in (used the LQ1 ones) and wired up.
The knock sensor wire needs to be lengthened.
TPS and IAC wires look like they should reach OK.
I had to lengthen the coolant temp sensor to reach the cylinder head since the LX9 doesnt have the sensor in the LIM.

The connector on the alternator is different. The dohc uses a 2 wire connector that is a different shape. The connector from the LX9 harness fits the 3100 alternator I am using so I will wire that in to work, though the LX9 connector only uses 1 wire so I will have to check my service manuals and see what the second wire was for (probably just a ground so I should still be ok).

I have a new CPS wire that reaches the ICM just fine. The power/ground wires for the ICM will need to be lengthened. The only challenge (wiring-wise) will be the other connector on the ICM, there is no way it will reach so it needs to be lengthened, I want to say it is 4 or 5 wires in that connector.

Once all this wiring is done I need to fab up a throttlebody, connect the water and fuel hoses, add oil, water, and crank this thing to life.