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REASSEMBLY
Begin raising subframe to transmission so the subframe engine mount bolts are seated into the engine mount.
Torque engine mount nuts to 35 ft-lb
Insert driveshaft into transmission and confirm it clicks into place. Slip other end into hub.
Raise subframe slowly. When the lower control arm is close enough to insert the ball joint stud into steering knuckle, confirm drive shaft is well aligned in hub and begin lining stud up with knuckle. Continue raising until castle nut can be threaded onto stud.
Thread castle nut onto stud taking care not to spin stud and split boot. Continue raising frame and tightening stud as practical. Once it will stay in place tighten to 40 ft-lb and secure with a fresh cotter pin. Place the brake pads back in the caliper as they were before, remove caliper from wire loop and reattach to the bracket. Torque bolts to 63 ft-lb.
Once subframe is fully raised insert both front and back bolts. Tighten to ?? ft-lb (Haynes says 133 ft-lb). Be sure to take up slack on the passenger side bolts and torque to spec.
Align intermediate shaft with power steering rack stud and slip into place. Insert pinch bolt and tighten to 35 ft-lb. Pull boot back out of firewall and slip down to cover linkage. Seat snap fitting of boot over matching portion on power steering rack.
Insert tie rod stud into steering knuckle. Use a box wrench to hold stud in place or you will split the protective boot. Tighten bolt to 22 ft-lb and then 120 degrees / 2 nut flats past that.
Install sway bar and suspension link and tighten nut to 17 ft-lb.
Reattach exhaust nuts, tighten to 144 in-lb.
Again, remove transmission pan.
Pry out old filter seal with a seal puller.
Use a socket to tap a new seal into place.
Place filter into seal and use a mallet to gently tap into place until *really* secure.
If a reusable pan gasket is in good shape put it in place with the pan, otherwise use a new neoprene gasket.
Install pan and tighten bolts to 10 ft-lb/14 Nm.
Reconfirm all suspension bolts (passenger side subframe bolts?) and steering gear are tight. Replace anti-lock wiring & splash guard.Use a socket to tap a new seal into place.
Place filter into seal and use a mallet to gently tap into place until *really* secure.
If a reusable pan gasket is in good shape put it in place with the pan, otherwise use a new neoprene gasket.
Install pan and tighten bolts to 10 ft-lb/14 Nm.
Take up slack in driveshaft spindle nut, use care not to apply force that would upset jackstands.
Re-install wheels and lower vehicle to ground.
Tighten spindle nuts: 118 ft-lb or (pre 1998? 151 ft-lb)
Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lb.
Attach shift cable to transmission.
Reattach wiring harness connectors.
Attach bracket to radiator support and torque to 21 ft-lb.
Attach bolts from engine mount struts to radiator support brackets & torque to 35 ft-lb.
Reattach wiring and air ducts.
Fill transmission with 8qt of fluid. Expect to add 2 more due to loss from pump, valve body & channel plate removal.
Start engine and check for leaks. If all looks good take a test drive. Check fluid before shutting off and add as required. Once transmission cools, retorque pan bolts to 10 ft-lb/ 14 Nm.
Miscellania:
4T60E Differentials with an asterisk are "fine pitch" final drives. Sun gears, internal ring gears, and pinion gears are NOT interchangeable with other final drives.
4T65E with "IMS" have the newer type of s...
Kristopher Gerbracht