General Tire/Wheel info:
Tire Calc: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Alt Tire Calc: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit
Tire Info: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...foTireMath.jsp

5x115 The 1ST # is the number of lugs. The 2ND is the spacing between the lugs, measuring center point of the lug to the next lug. have heard that 5x114.3 from something like a mustage will work.

Our wheels have an offset of +40. Offset is the dist from the center line of the wheel to where the wheel mounts to a hub. A pos offset has the hub/lug toward the outside (away from car) of the wheel and normally found on FWD cars. Neg offset is the opposite.

225/55-16 The first number, 225 is the dist from one edge to the other of the tread patch in mm. 55 is the percent of the first # giving the side wall height. The last # 16 is the dia in inchs of the wheel for the tire.

Following are for 95-99 Lumina & Monte Carlo:
Wheels: all are 5-115mm bolt unless specified
Factory alloy's 95-99 : [16" x 6.5" +40mm ] 35-38 lbs w/ tire
Other Facotry wheels:
Monte's95-96; Monte/LTZ 97-99
Lumina91-99
Grand Prix91-96 i know the later spiral ones fit. they were like 97-99
Olds Cutlass supreme 9?-96 ( not sure when they originated i think around 91 92)
Bonneville 5 Spokes fit with a spacer for the front. http://bizio.homeftp.org/geoff/bc/sh.../DSC03803s.JPG
If running a brake upgrade or 98+ Grandprix or 00+ Monte Carlo brakes the older 97 cross-lace wheels will not fit. Possibly other early 16" wheels wont fit either because the caliper will rub the wheel.

Aftermarket:
[Enkie MM2 17" x 7" +38mm] 40 lbs w/ tire http://www.speednstylez.com/images/E...MM2%20copy.gif
[Eagly Alloys 077 18x8 +38mm] 30 lbs w/o tire http://www.therimsite.com/gfx/lg/077.jpg
[American Racing Casinos 17X7.5 +45mm] http://www.rimgod.com/images/AR/casino.jpg
[American Racing Estrella 17X7.5 +40 mm] http://www.rimgod.com/images/AR/estrella.jpg
[Fondmetal Tech 4's 18x?] http://www.polstr.ru/products/Shiny/...all/tech-4.jpg

Tires run:
225/60-16" Factory Tire
225/55-16" speedo off about 2 mph
225/55-17" no speedo problems near stock dia.
245/45-18" Speedo correct. Near stock dia. No rubbing
245/60-16" Manitcor
235/50-17" very- slight rubbing in near-lock turns in the parking lot.
235/50-18" No rubbing issues. Tires sit very close lower strut plate.

Tire Brands: (Discriptions/ratings for tires are from different members opinions.)
225/55-17 Mastercraft Avenger ES tires, great wet weather performance, low price, good tread life.
245/40-18 Mastercraft Avenger ZHP Good grip, extra body gap then factory, good wear.
225/55-17 Falcon Ziex 512. Good all season. never used in snow. good in rain. some road noise. good dry grip.
225/55-16 & 245/45-17 Yokohama AVS ES 100's Out standing IMO decent tread wear amazing wet & dry traction for a street tire. Quiet tire. not recomended for winter. for the 245/45-17 speedo recalibration was needed.
225/55-16 BFG G-Force Sport Good dry traction, good wet traction, Decent tread wear, quiet
Kuhmo KH-11. Great dry traction, good wet traction with decent hydroplaning resistance. Road noise is minimal, comfort should not be considered when buying these tires.. At 42 psi they're rock hard. Great cornering tire but they wear out too fast because of the soft tread. Too expensive for how long they last.
235/55R17 GoodYear Eagle W-Rated Crappy wet traction, good dry traction. They go bald when heavily used for burnouts... go figure...
235/40ZR18 Yokahama AVS dB great dry taction, ok wet. quiet when new, then get gradually louder as they wear http://www.1010tires.com/images/tire...ama_db_new.jpg
225/60R16 Douglas Performance GT-H good traction and wear life. good cheaper tire
235/50-18 BFG KDWS An inch over stock height. No rubbing issues. Tires sit very close lower strut plate.
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Following are for 6th gens:

Wheels:
Stock 04 SS(S):
[Stock Diamond Cut Al 17" x 6.5"] offest?

Stock 02 SS:
[Stock Alloys 16x6.5 +38mm] 44lbs w/ tire

Aftermarket:
[Fittipaldi Force 17x8] will rub on a lowered 6th gen
[Eagle 185 17x8] rims also cause the same problem.
[Vault wheels 17x7 +40 ] http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...d/100_0290.jpg
[Volt Racing 175 17X7.5 +45mm] (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...S/100_0345.jpg)

Tires:
Stock Tire:
235/55-17 Goodyear Eagle RS-A Facotry tire no issues
225/60-16 Goodyear Eagle RS-A Tires have excellent dry, wet and snow handling and are a good all around tire, though they are extremely pricey. The treadwear is a bit above average.

Aftermarket:
235/45-17 on 17x7 wheels no problems
245/45-17 Essenza 210 Type R tires. Best tires I (PacerSS) have ever driven, dropped the F1 to use these tires from here on out, great wet, dry, snow traction, good all year round. http://www.truckaddons.com/images02/...za/R-Type1.jpg
255/45-17 tires can be run on a 17 x 8" Fittipaldi Force rim on a 6th gen with a stock suspension with almost no problems except hitting the wheel liner on hard dips with a full car, however, this size tire on the same rim causes rubbing and danage to the inner lip of the wheel well when lowered with the GMPP / Koni spring/struts on the same car. This damage and rubbing occurs all the time once lowered.
xxx/xx-xx Nitto NT555 Xtreme DR tires have excellent dry handling, very good handling in rainy conditions. They have extremely poor handling in snow, and I would not reccommend them for any sort of winter driving. The cost is fair at about $135-150 per tire, and the tread life is slightly better than average.
info from: Manitcor,HeavyChevy3800,1995DOHC,Malaclypse,Z28toa Z34,corning_d3,lav74,PacerSS,SSGirl,jimmyfl

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Wheel Bearing/Hub Removal

Here are the tools you will need:
-Jack
-2 Jack Stands
-Lug Wrench or Impact gun
-T60 Torx bit
-15mm Socket
-36mm Axle Socket
-Long Breaker bar
-Hammer
-Axel grease or bearing grease
-Liquid Wrench or other penetrating lube

Procedure:
Remove lug cover.

Loosen axel nut, but do not completely remove. This is where the penetrating lube helps. Spray on and let sit for 20 min.

Jack up car and support each side with jack stands. The idea is to have both front wheels off the ground, because you will need to turn steering wheel to gain access to the four bolts holding the hub on.

Remove wheel

Insert a screwdriver into the rotor vent at top of rotor to keep from rotating. Use the 36mm socket to remove the axel nut completely. Liquid wrench helps here.

Turn Steering wheel count-clockwise, to gain access to the brake mounting bolts. Remove top and bottom bolts with the T60 torx bit with breaker bar. Once removed support with wire or coat hanger off of the spring above. Remove Rotor.

Use the 15mm socket and breaker bar to remove the forward 2 bolts and then the rear 2 bolts on the hub. *The bolt heads are behind the shield, so the steering wheel needs to be turned to reach them. It will help to use the liquid wrench again on the four bolts. Once loose, straighten the wheels. Tap the axel bolt with hammer or mallot to separate.

Take new Hub and apply bearing grease inside. Also apply grease to the axel itself. Pic of new and old Hub

Installation is the reverse of removal. When attaching the hub leave the wheels centered while attaching to the axel. Start as many bolts as possible. Turn wheel to access each bolt to tighten. 90lbs of Tq is all you need for these. Then attach rotor and caliper. Use screwdriver again to put on axel nut. Put wheel on. Lower car and tighten axel nut to 160 lbs of Tq


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Rear Brake Install / Rotor Removal

Tools needed:
-Lug wrench, Jack and stand
-breaker bar i used 1/2 drive
-1/2" swivel and adapter to 3/8" to use my sockets
-3/4" socket for caliper bracket
-12mm to remove caliper
-10mm socket and open end wrench for bleeder screw.
-rear caliper piston retractor. the one i have is a metal cube that has many diff tips sticking out of each side. there are some that have a plate and a screw as well... these are more expensive and hard to find. but you will need something to turn and retract the piston. pliers will not work... and could damage the piston.

Remove wheel.
Remove 12 mm bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket.
Remove pads. The pads pull out toward you for the front and away from you in the rear.
Now you need to compress the piston. The easiest way i found to do this so far is to mount the caliper on the wheel without the rotor on and use the cube looking tool to screw the piston on.

To remove the caliper, remove the two 3/4" bolts that hold the caliper bracket. Once removed the rotor will be able to slide right off the hub. If not loose just tap with hammer or blunt object.

Now reattach the caliper bolts the 2 3/4" and the 12mm and begin using the caliper tool to screw in the piston. While screwing in the piston, you need to open the bleed valve, it is a 10mm. It is wise to do this, because it will take less pressure to screw the piston in and there is debre in the brake system that you dont want to force into the other lines.

Note, i used a cheep line of hose and a bottel to catch the brake fluid so i didnt need to bleed the brakes. If there is a chance for air to enter the system, you will need to bleed the brakes. Once the piston is screwed in, the notch should line up on the bottom of the caliper. You may need to rotate the piston either direction to line it up. This notch mates up to the brake pads.

Now that the piston is retracted, you need to reinstall the rotor.
Install the new pads and and secure the 12mm bolt back and your done. Put the wheel on and test drive your car keeping in mind that it takes a few pumps of the brakes to get the piston to move out and take up the slack in the brakes.

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