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2000 Lumina Dies coming to a stop & put in Drive

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  • 2000 Lumina Dies coming to a stop & put in Drive

    my friend stopped by today and asked if i could look at his 2000 Chevy Lumina 3.1, i told him i would need to see the car to better diagnose it, so he took me to the car and i drove it back to my house, he warned me it will die when put into drive and whenever it comes to a stop, i drove it from where we picked it up and it drove just fine, once we got to my house the car cut off when i came to a stop. it doesnt have a CEL on AT ALL and he said it never has. i did notice the fuel pump doesnt sound too great but the car doesnt act up when in motion

    New Fuel Filter (1 month Ago)
    New spark plug wires (Recent)
    New Spark Plugs
    Cleaned MAF today w/ spray

    i was searching through google and several of the results claimed Idle Air Control is the culprit, but they were never confirmed & the posts were from like 2008, if i can resolve this problem easily ill work on his car, if not ill tell him to take it to someone else

  • #2
    Not sure but try cleaning the Idle air controller. Aside from popular misconception, the rpm's drop when placed in drive via the PCM commanding the idle speed. It may be 800 rpm in park/neutral, and be 700 rpm in drive/rev.

    I bet the engine searches a little for the right idle speed beforing dying. The idle air controller (IAC) might be reacting too slowly or erratically to be effective.

    I agree with the results from your google search, IAC is the first thing I'de replace as they are cheap.


    Support WOT-TECH and buy the IAC from them. Can't beat $10 per 2x IAC.......link
    Last edited by TGP37; 03-07-2012, 11:30 AM.
    1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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    • #3
      Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
      Not sure but try cleaning the Idle air controller. Aside from popular misconception, the rpm's drop when placed in drive via the PCM commanding the idle speed. It may be 800 rpm in park/neutral, and be 700 rpm in drive/rev.

      I bet the engine searches a little for the right idle speed beforing dying. The idle air controller (IAC) might be reacting too slowly or erratically to be effective.

      I agree with the results from your google search, IAC is the first thing I'de replace as they are cheap.


      Support WOT-TECH and buy the IAC from them. Can't beat $10 per 2x IAC.......link
      he took off with the car, and had someone take a look at it, Supposedly the guy changed out the coil pack and it solved the problem.. the shaking was from misfiring.. i didnt think a coil pack could cause the engine to die going from park to Drive and whenver the car stops.... But he says that solved the problem....

      Why wont these new cars throw CEL/Codes when having problems.... i had a guy tell me he had a 2000 ford ranger and it had a few things go bad and the computer refuses to throw codes, i thought they made these high tech systems to solve problems Easier than before.. or am i mistaken? i say high tech cause ive grown up around Carbs and straight pipes

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      • #4
        I'm not an expert, but there are three coil packs, each one servicing two cylinders. Why would the car shut off if only one coil pack was malfunctioning? Or maybe all three were? Don't know.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by talon2swords View Post
          I'm not an expert, but there are three coil packs, each one servicing two cylinders. Why would the car shut off if only one coil pack was malfunctioning? Or maybe all three were? Don't know.
          im guessing the guy changed out ALL 3, i wasnt there when he did it, but my friend says the car doesnt do that Anymore

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          • #6
            Or his IAC is still slow but he is throwing a stronger spark now helping negate the effect, possibly.

            Or, which I believe, the shop replaced the IAC for dirt cheap and then charged to replace the coils. Replacing coils is a dream job for these engines. They're right on top, lol.
            1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
              Or his IAC is still slow but he is throwing a stronger spark now helping negate the effect, possibly.

              Or, which I believe, the shop replaced the IAC for dirt cheap and then charged to replace the coils. Replacing coils is a dream job for these engines. They're right on top, lol.
              thats what im guessing... because something doesnt sound right.. next time he comes by i will have a look... I told him to let me take a look at it, but being impatient cost him..

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              • #8
                well i took a look under his hood because he left his car in my yard.... Same Coil pack and i see a few things disconnected behind the coil pack... Someone rigged n robbed him.... the car runs fine But... I TOLD HIM to give me a few days, didnt listen and spent 5x as much as i would have charged him...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by bigboi407 View Post
                  Why wont these new cars throw CEL/Codes when having problems.... i had a guy tell me he had a 2000 ford ranger and it had a few things go bad and the computer refuses to throw codes, i thought they made these high tech systems to solve problems Easier than before.. or am i mistaken? i say high tech cause ive grown up around Carbs and straight pipes
                  Some codes have to have the fault present for so long over a certain amount of time or so many test cycles. One more reason intermittent problems can be a headache to track down.
                  -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                  91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                  92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                  94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                  Originally posted by Jay Leno
                  Tires are cheap clutches...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
                    Some codes have to have the fault present for so long over a certain amount of time or so many test cycles. One more reason intermittent problems can be a headache to track down.
                    And HP Scanner is the pain reliever for the headaches of intermittents. I'm spoiled now, don't want to touch an engine I can't scan, lol.
                    1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I don't know what transmission that car uses, but the symptoms sound like it could be a bad lockup TCC solenoid. That's a common failure on the 3T40/THM-125C. But being a 2000 model I'm guessing it's a 4spd, still, it could be a similar failure.
                      The stuff that got disconnected - by any chance did they unplug the lockup TCC? Because that's the no-cost workaround for that problem.

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                      • #12
                        d
                        Originally posted by armos View Post
                        I don't know what transmission that car uses, but the symptoms sound like it could be a bad lockup TCC solenoid. That's a common failure on the 3T40/THM-125C. But being a 2000 model I'm guessing it's a 4spd, still, it could be a similar failure.
                        The stuff that got disconnected - by any chance did they unplug the lockup TCC? Because that's the no-cost workaround for that problem.
                        i only looked under his hood for a few minutes... idk what was done, but screws are missing and a hose or 2 are unplugged and seems like a hell of what you guys would call jerry rig (We use other words LOL).

                        He doesnt care, and the car is pretty tore up inside Anyways... so i dont think he cares too much about it

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          last year a guy down the street lost a fairly decent van to a stupid mistake his son made. He disconnected a ground and ignored it since the engine "appeared" to run correctly. Later that day, the engine bay was engulfed in flames at a stop light 2 blocks from home.

                          An example of how "jerry rigs" can ruin good vehicles and put others at risk. I used to do crap like that in my teen years. It isn't worth the risk or the headache while driving such a contraption. I've seen numerous breakdowns and a majority of them are the beaters.

                          I won't touch a car like that no matter who they are. Odds are shit starts breaking by simply unbolting it. And then "they" blame the mechanic.......
                          1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I don't believe in rigging unless you are on your way home and the problem prevents you from getting there, but once there it's time to fix it right. I also won't give a car back to someone unless I feel it's safe to drive and I don't do anything to their car that I wouldn't do to my own. I sleep well at night doing it this way.
                            -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                            91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                            92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                            94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                            Originally posted by Jay Leno
                            Tires are cheap clutches...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
                              I don't believe in rigging unless you are on your way home and the problem prevents you from getting there, but once there it's time to fix it right. I also won't give a car back to someone unless I feel it's safe to drive and I don't do anything to their car that I wouldn't do to my own. I sleep well at night doing it this way.
                              like brakes right

                              btw, my brakes are tight and work great. I can slam the brakes and not loose a line or fear loosing a line. Though they do lock up if I slam them hard enough as I deleted ABS, but it isn't a big deal.

                              I do agree with a rig to get home, but only if a tow isn't feasible or the risk is low. Before i had kids and a wife it was easier to risk myself. Now people depend on me so I learned to do it right or not at all.

                              In example, jacking up my wifes car yesterday, the jack was a screw type. Just as I positioned the jack stand the jack gave and the car dropped (free fall drop, not a hydraulic loss sinking) onto the jack stand. So i had to get my other jack to get it on the ground again. It was an older jack. If I was the type to trust the jack, I would be seriously phucked up right now, or worse....gone.
                              1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

                              Comment

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