header tips.

[ericjon262]

I'm in the process of making headers for my 3500 Fiero swap, and thought I might share a few tips I've learned along the way.

1. Check your machine before every weld!
   IE: on my welder, the power switch is right next to one of the heat switches, if I'm not paying the utmost attention, I may inadvertently switch to high heat from low and start blowing holes instead of welding.
   
2. tack tack tack, then weld.
   don't weld the whole pipe until you're sure it's where you want it, it's much easier to cut a few tacks than a whole seam.
   
3. Invest in a tubing cutter!
   it's much easier two weld to strait cuts than two crooked cuts, I picked one up for $20 at Lowe's (plumbing section) that will cut most header primaries no problem.
   
4. weld the flanges and colectors LAST.
   it's easier to weld up the full length of your primaries when they aren't bunched together.
   
5. If you're using the TCE 3x00 D-forming tool, weld some "ears" to it so it will hold itself in the vise for you.
   
   
   
   

When I was done welding my primaries, I built a pressure tester that I could hook up to my air compressor to test my welds, it cost less than $20 to make, and has worked great so far,

I made it out of an 1 1/4" PVC repair coupling, a 2" PVC cap, a air line coupling, some epoxy, and a rubber expansion plug.

drill a 5/8" hole in the 2" cap, and epoxy the air line coupling in, the epoxy the 2" cap to the repair coupling.



The repair coupling's threaded ring and washer will fit over a 1 5/8" primary that has been pressed into a "D" shape, and then you can tighten the coupling and it will seal against the outside of the pipe, the seal may not be perfect, but it doesn't have to be.

then get the rubber expansion plug, and tighten it into the other end of the primary you want to test.



now hook an airline up to the air coupling you epoxied to the cap, and apply pressure, I would not go past 25-30 PSI, you don't need to, and I don't trust the epoxy to that.

Brush a mixture of your favorite dishsoap and water over the welds and look for bubbles, if you see bubbles, you have leaks!!!

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[carbon]

Nice!

[bszopi]

I may have to promote this to an article...

[bob442]

Very nice! so ahhh.... where the finish product?

[NateD4]

I think somewhere I saw a special tube cutter for headers.

What kind of tubing are you working with stainless or mild steel?


As the old adage goes "Measure twice, cut once" (I prefer to measure thrice).

[bob442]

i dont think a pipe cutter will work out when you have to cut a 180* j bent on a angle. i ended up using a small chop saw and a belt sander to make the cuts perfect, and tune the cut a bit too.

[ericjon262]

i dont think a pipe cutter will work out when you have to cut a 180* j bent on a angle. i ended up using a small chop saw and a belt sander to make the cuts perfect, and tune the cut a bit too.

I've had good luck with the pipe cutter, but I do see where it wouldn't work in all situations, you have a chop saw, so life is much easier for you, I have a cut-off wheel and an angle grinder...

[bob442]

i just cant picture a pipe cutter working on a 45* angle on a small radious U bend, wouldnt it just walk all over the place for the cut?

[ericjon262]

I've had good luck with the pipe cutter, but I do see where it wouldn't work in all situations, you have a chop saw, so life is much easier for you, I have a cut-off wheel and an angle grinder...

i just cant picture a pipe cutter working on a 45* angle on a small radious U bend, wouldnt it just walk all over the place for the cut?

for most of what I've been working with, a pipe cutter has worked great, the main issue is that of clearance to bring the cutter all the way around the pipe.

[Superdave]

I typically used a hack saw or a sawzall but before it broke my exhaust chain cutter worked well....



good tips, another good one is to not use fluxcore.. haha