57k Mile LX9 Alero [[swap]]

[slowalero]

N/A 300 hp will be a very expensive task, unless your talking about crank horsepower and not wheel horse power.

Yes. 300whp is just too much for that kind of car, for me. There's better chassis's for that.

[Google Adsense]

[slowalero]

Here's what state it's in now.

The front end is back on the car. Earlier photos will show it removed. The paint is really clean, I wanted to reduce the risk of the inevitible shop damage as much as possible so that's one reason and it's corny but, I see a VW friend always removing the front end's off Passat's and what not for timing belt/water pump jobs, and engine removals. Volkswagen calls it "service mode". It feels professional. That and like the VW, the Alero's nose comes off in like, 8 little bolts.

I was stupid and decided to drive my 200,000 mile daily with the 50,000 mile headlamps, and deer number four taught me that lesson. So now it's a new lamp assembly. However, GM does release the part number for export (Chevrolet Alero-U.K.) headlamps on several web sites, and they're $120 cheaper than domestic lamps. I don't get it, but from what I can find after careful scrutiny of photos of export Alero's, the only difference, seems to be, the corner reflectors are vertical prism clear lenses, versus what you may see around the 'states with amber pyramid prism lenses. Just have to use an amber bulb now.

Engine looks kinda sloppy, just installed things for an initial start. Some of the accessories up top, like coils, are only finger tight because it's easier to install heater hoses with them out. The ignition cables are mapped out, just need loom to make it look OEM boring, and clean. Got my 3400 thermostat housing from the last salvage yard visit. Painted Toyota beige and mounted with a 180* thermostat and new GM seal. Be advised N-body LX9 swappers, you need to keep this part as well. The LX9 housing has a barbed steel nipple for a slip on hose out to the side, OEM 3400 has a threaded fitting on top. If you dont care about cutting your OEM surge tank pipe and worm clamping a new hose on the LX9 piece, then I guess that'll work too. Just felt this was cleaner. Brass brushed my exhaust manifold shields, although no one gives a shit 'cause OEM manifolds suck. Just looks cleaner, even if it is only temporary. Also am interested in test fitting an LX5 intake bellows since it's round and not oval. OEM Alero piece is too long with the throttle body spacer/adapter to bolt the OEM air box down, so I'm looking for something OEM looking that simply fits better. We'll see what happens.

Still have to drill the EGR block off plate for the FPR/HVAC vacuum source, snatch a straight hex (UIM) bolt from an LX9 at the local salvage yard to replace the stud for the plastic OEM engine cover and bolt the ignition cable separator down, find a clean or new ($77) CKP sensor harness, and clean or new heater pipe. Don't really wanna spend $48 on a short, thin walled steel tube.

Purchased new heater hoses and clamps from my local GM parts center, $44, they'll be here tomorrow. Yes, I spent $12 on GM spring clamps. Also ordered thermostat bypass pipe from Milzy tonight. That should be here soon too, and when it does, the damn thing'll actually be able to hold coolant again!

More soon!

[slowalero]

Progress!

You'll probably notice right away that everything top end has been removed, again. If you've been following, I ground most of the flashing off the upper intake to dress it up some, but left myself unsatisfied with the finish. So being I plan on doing more engine mods down the road, I decided now was a great time to port the runner openings. It saves me money with the tuner's and being they're done on the exchange process, I didn't want another OEM plenum back.

I also decided to tackle the vacuum situation now as well. Not that I rely on the forums to solve my problems, but I scoured the pages to see what I could find, and I saw a lot of folks taping the EVAP port and installing a barbed fitting. I don't like the idea of just rubber hose, it looks cheap and I couldn't do that 'cause I'm using the OEM LX9 EVAP valve. So after many nights losing sleep, thinking about a clean solution, I came up with this.

I wanted it as hidden as possible, and run the shortest lines. After removing the EGR block off plate supplied by Milzy, I drilled a hole in the stainless and borrowed a 3/16" pipe tap, ordered a compression tee from my local NAPA (only real parts store around here), and it fit! I'll probably drizzle some thread lock to ensure a leak free seal. The FPR source is up top and as you may see, the ghost gray plastic hose that lies at the bottom is the HVAC line which will run out of the bottom of the tee. All you'll see is the one hard line from the FPR to the EGR plate. It will probably wear paint, not sure what color yet.

[Starglow]

Looks good....I can't do that on mine because the EGR needs to be in place for state emissions inspection. What are you using the 3500 EVAP for and how are you going to connect it electrically?

[slowalero]

Considering the vacuum supply isn't near completion yet, it's good to hear compliments already, thanks Starglow!

[slowalero]

It's can be a pain to deal with government vehicle regulations when modifying your car, especially when it comes between an affordable solution and a means to a successful state inspection. Many states require certain emissions system component presence, and, or operation. The New York State Vehicle Inspection Program is among the most strict in the nation, second only to California by sampling exhaust exclusively in the (New York) Metropolitan Area. Along with visual aspects of a vehicle inspection, one functional test is the communication between the vehicle diagnostic system and NYVIP's online database, via the OBD II data link connector. The most scrutinized emissions system by NYVIP is the EVAP system. Along with obvious, present EVAP system components, the EVAP system is tested for readiness and functionability during the online communication. For those reasons, I chose to retain EVAP on project slowAlero. I'm a car guy-I leave things in better shape than I found them. It's a responsibility for me as such to address issues with our environment regarding our enjoyment with automobiles. Raw gasoline vapors deplete more ozone molecules than burned vapors do. If I were to fully delete EVAP, it's in my OCD nature to remove the canister and it's plumbing. That's more labor than I wanted to invest. I also hate the idea of raw gas vapors eminating from under my car as the gas tank purges vapors at will. There also is not much to offer in the way of mounting of the 3400 EVAP valve in the original location in the bay on the LX9 plenum. The LX9 valve offers a direct vacuum source, cleaning up the bay of ugly rubber hoses running everywhere too. The electrical connection is also fully compatible between the 3400 EVAP valve and the 3500 valve. GM uses an exclusive red weatherpack connector for all EVAP valves, and has done since it's introduction with weatherpack connectors. The other inspection law is if the vehicle was originally equiped with an EGR system, the valve must be present, and only obviously functional. The Alero had EGR on the LA1 3400 originally so therefore, an EGR valve must be present, and obviously functional-plugged in and hooked up. The most essential component to evading EGR inspection law was the ignorance of open circuits programed into the PCM. This will show up on the online communication as a fault-free, apparently functioning EGR system as the harness connector lies abandoned. I have to comply with state inspection regulation as well, I just know loopholes.