Plans for L32/3X00 Hybrid

[tkoforpresident]

So I have resolved on the 3x00 swap...

I'd like to compile a list of parts/gaskets/modifcations necessary to complete the swap.

I will also have many simple questions along the way that I hope you all can help me with. We have lots of time before I actually start buying anything which gives us lots of time to agree on the right parts

This will be going into my 93 3.4 Firebird with 4l60 (non electronic) transmission and obd-1 swap (7727 Ecm with $a1).

So for what I know so far (and i will update this list accordingly as we figure things out)

RED = Purchased

Parts:

- 3500 heads (Built with ls6 springs, ls1 seats)
- Stock 3500 1.6 ratio rocker arms
- Custom pushrods (in correlation to my custom cam) (.451/.456 - Dur @ .50 224/230- 109 LSA) (From Wot-tech)
- 3500 LIM (cleaned, tapped for CTS)
- 3400 UIM (cleaned, lettering shaved off, back of intake shaved as well to deter rubbing against the cowl)
- TCE 59 MM Throttle Body w/ red anodized throttle plate (From TCE)
- 3400 Fuel rail
- 28 # injectors (From WOT TECH)
- 3500 Valve Covers
- Longer Throttle Cable (?)
- 3500 Head Bolts (From advance auto)
- 3400 EGR block off plate (From WOT-TECH)
- 3500 Spark Plugs AC Delco (From advance auto)
- 3500 LIM bolts (from advance auto)
- 3x00 TCE Billet Thermostat Housing (from TCE)
- 3500 thermostat 185* (from summitracing)
- PCV valve ( from Advance auto)
- RWD CTS - 2 wire and single wire.
- 3400 adj. FPR
- Stainless Steel Allen Head 3400 bolt set (From TCE)
- Valve cover breather filter
- Billet "3400" Oil Filler Cap (from TCE)
Gaskets:

- Stock 3.4 (iron head) head gaskets
- Stock 3500 header gaskets
- 3400/3500 top end gaskets (metal fel-pro versions)





Modifications:

- Tab on top of TCC must be cut off to allow space for 3500 LIM

- Alternator shaved a bit to allow proper fitment of valve cover

- Accessory brackets modified to allow proper mounting to heads

- LIM drilled and tapped for CTS (2 wire?)

- Drivers side Head drilled and tapped for CTS (single wire)

- 3400 UIM Lettering shaved off to allow fitment under cowl

- Modify injector harness (?)

- Pacesetter headers need to be modified to fit 3500 heads (bolts holes need to be slotted)

- Heater core hose modified and routed to the back of LIM







This is just an example of how I would like to go about this list. As you guys help me figure things out I will update the list. I know there is some obvious things that you guys can point out to me right off the bat.

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[tkoforpresident]

Here are a few easy ones.

#1 What kind of pushrods are required? Will stock 3500 pushrods work or will they need to be customized to match the cam/lifter set?

# 2 Which fuel rail should I get 3400 or 3500?

#3 What size injectors should I get (or is stock size adequate?)

#4 Rksport headers... are these headers meant for the 3500 ? (to fit the heads) or are they the rksport headers meant for the iron head 3.4 (l32)? and why won't my pacesetters work as is?

#5 What should I do for a throttlebody? Will the stock 3400 TB work fine or is there a better option?

thanks for the help!

[bszopi]

#1 - Custom, although Ben may be able to size them appropriately when you buy the cam
#2 - 3400, as the 3500 is a returnless setup and would require a lot more work
#5 - Stock will work at the start to save you some initial $$, but upgrading to something later would be a good idea

[tkoforpresident]

Excellen info, thanks

I've updated the list accordingly.

With tuning possible I guess it doesn't matter how large I go but what would the stock 3400 injector size be? And would they be sufficient?

Considering I've almost maxed out my 19lb injectors (as per Ben) with my current iron head setup, I would assume something in the low 20's would suffice?

thanks

[tkoforpresident]

looks like i found the answer through some searching:

"stock injectors on 2000 and up 3400's are delphi injectors rated at 22.5lb/hr @ 55psi"



so now my question is whether or not 22.5# is big enough? My guess is yes but I should really wait to hear what you guys think.

I'm also going to assume that the FPR which is capable of 55psi comes with the fuel rail/injectors so as long as you guys think 22.5lb/hr is good enough than all i really need to satisfy is a 2000+ 3400 fuel rail with injectors

but like I said, since tuning is now possible if we have any reserves at all about that size I would not hesitate to go bigger.

also, I will have to go with 3500 heads and now a 3400 fuel rail. therefore, which LIM should I use? Or is it either or?

[TechRod]

The 3500 LIM flows better and the 3400 UIM bolts right to it.

[bszopi]

IIRC, you need to use the 3500 lower with the 3500 heads.

[TechRod]

That's the way I understand it also, but I don't have first-hand experience yet.

[tkoforpresident]

that's what I thought, thanks!

I found a guy who did a kind of "write up" on this and there is definitely lots of modifications (albeit slight) that need to be done to make this work. I'll list those later on.

[tkoforpresident]

Here is the "modifications" list from a guy who did exactly what I'm planning on doing (Forcedfirebird will remember him as "koolcamaro" on ftv6)

"First thing you must have the little tab on the top of the timing cover cut off or grinded off, or else the Lower intake manifold will not sit properly. You must also use a 3400 upper intake manifold, if you put this in a 4th generation camaro because the 3500 plenum will not clear unless you do ALOT of modifications. And even the 3400 plenum requires modding, first the "3400" needs to be grinded off. Then, you will need to have around 50 to 75 thousandths taken off the back half portion of the manifold, so it will clear the cowl and wont vibrate against the cowl when the engine is under a load, TRUST ME ON THIS. When i first did the head swap, i only had the numbers grinded off the 3400 manifold, it just BARELY cleared the cowl, but would make the most AWFUL rattle whenever i stepped on the throttle real quick because the manifold was contacting the cowl. i would probably stick with taking 50 thousandths away just to be safe. The alternator and power steering bracket requires modification. the alternator bracket is extremely easy to mod, all you need to do is drill one hole through a recess that is alread there, that will line it up with the 3500 head. Now, the power steering bracket isnt quite as easy, but if you can swap heads, then you can sure enough do this. It requires drilling a couple of holes to line it up with head, but you have to kinda guess, or at least i did. Where you place the power steering bracket will determine what size belt you need, so be cautious. All i can say about the power steering bracket is to try your best to get a good mental image of where it is placed on the 3.4 iron head when you remove the iron heads. Then place it in the same EXACT spot on the allumium heads and WHOALLA. IF you succeed, you should be able to use the stock belt, just like i am. The alternator will need grinding off on one corner in order to clear the passenger side valve cover, and you Must make sure that you place the valve cover with the oil filler cap on the drivers side. i wont go into detail about that, im just giving a heads up. YOU will have to rigg up some brackets for the back of the alternator and the back of the power steering for extra support, since the stock will no longer fit. i Just used a couple of the origninal brackets and just "modified them to work". There needs to be a coolant sensor drilled and tapped into the 3500 Lower manifold, since it did not come with a sensor attached. if you dont know where to place the sensor, then take a look at a 3400 Lower manifold, as it already comes with one. also i would have the heater hose hole tapped for a fitting, and BE SURE to get a good fitting. i still havent got my dang heater hose fitting to stop leaking, so i would recommend a good 1/2" brass fitting from ACE hardware. BTW, be sure to buy the three wire temp sensor for that Lower manifold, so you can send one signal to the pcm and the other to megasquirt. I would re-use the original sensor that the dash coolant guage reads off of though, i have that placed in my waterneck, although it is better if placed in the head for a better reading. The coil bracket will need to be moved over a little to clear the fuel lines coming from the fuel rail."



- That sure seems like a good deal of modification but not much of it seems TOO hard to do...