3500 Swap Finally Underway, a few questions

[jmgtp]

Thanks for the reply, pin L is the one I am powering.
I just bought a new (rebuilt) alternator and will bolt it in. I think it will do the trick.
The one I had looked very old and dirty, and when spun by hand the bearings made a good amount of noise. Its shot.

[Google Adsense]

[jmgtp]

New alternator charges like a champ. Electrical including fuel injection is done!
I even installed 1 dogbone mount. Just some nuts and bolts left!

Go UConn!

[jmgtp]

Got the power steering lines installed last night and I ran the motor for about 5 minutes. I went lock to lock probably about a dozen times but the pump is still making a lot of noise and the fluid looks frothy in the reservoir. Not sure if I have a bad pump or just a lot of air.

The new alternator that I installed less than a week ago is already not charging. It charged perfect on Saturday when it went in and last night when I checked the gauges (it had been running a few minutes) no charge. I need to figure out if I have a wiring problem or a dud alternator.

And the only other remaining issue is that the motor is still running rough. I installed the dogbones and it no longer bounces around but you can still feel it a bit and it sounds rough. If its been sitting it will fire right up first try. It'll mainting a good cold idle speed (1200-1300). As the engine warms and the idle speed begins to come down you can hear the roughness. I let it idle for at least 5 minutes last night, and it would occassionally get really rough and sound like it was going to stall but then recover. If I rev the motor it wants to die as the revs come back down to idle and I have to manipulate the throttle to keep it alive. It I stall it out it is very difficult to restart, it requires a generous amount of throttle angle and about 3x the normal cranking time.

My only guess right now is the tune is way off or the tune does not like my 3.4 dohc injectors. I haven't datalogged it yet, but that is the next step. To me, it sounds like it is running too rich. I almost feel like when it stalls there is so much extra fuel in the cylinders that it struggles to relight. I am currently running the 3500 tune that I have. I may go back to the 3.4 dohc code and use that as a starting point instead. I do have a set of 3400 injectors, should I install them? The injectors I am using now are 3.4 dohc, and they worked perfectly in their original motor so I do not believe them to be faulty.

[pocket-rocket]

Froth in the power steering is from air. When I've changed a line I normally do the lock to lock about a dozen times and don't worry about the whine since it's gone in a couple days of normal driving. Where did you get the alternator? I've had nothing but bad luck with Autozone alternators. I would data log the idle some before guessing if injectors are causing your bad idle. Didn't you say some time back it was running rich enough to burn your eyes a while back?

[jmgtp]

Alternator is a rebuilt from Advanced. The power steering lines run right by the alternator connections so perhaps I josseled something loose. I need to check that I have battery voltage at the charge post and 12v on the connector for the field, if I meet both of those criteria then there isn't much left to it other than to pull it out and bring to the store to be tested.

It was running extremely rich when I first started it and it was a MAP sensor issue. That has since been resolved. Last night I also rewired and used the new style MAP - this time I got the wiring right and the new MAP works without a hitch.

It seems to run a bit rich now but not like before, at least it stays running now. When I give it some throttle it revs right up but then when I let off it wants to die out as it returns to idle. Marc mentioned something about this on the bin I am using and it might be a known problem. I'll datalog but I'm also going to try the dohc bin to see if it at least runs without stalling after a rev. It ran for about 5-6 minutes last night and I imagine in that time it made it to closed loop operation which didnt seem to help. The only way to know if it made it to closed loop is to datalog though.

the 3x00 airbox should be in today. Then I just need to get a buddy over to help me get the hood on before I can take it for a test spin, the car has some pretty old gas in it too that could possibly be part of the rough running problem. I'd guess its 6months old and I don't remember if I put stabilizer in it.

[pocket-rocket]

My wifes old T-bird that sat here for 3 years until I sold it recently had old gas in it and it idled fine after the first crank and start O.o I also drove the 91 around without a hood after the 5 speed swap wrapped up, but then again, it was also around 11PM, lol. On the gas note, you should be able to tell if it's ok by the smell if you let some out of the schrader valve into a rag.

[tkoforpresident]

careful with running your car too long if it really is that rich, you might foul your plugs and then your car won't even start, and you'll kill your battery & etc.

[jmgtp]

Well, its not quite THAT rich anymore. It was when I had the MAP sensor issue, but then it would only run for 10 seconds and die.

The alternator was a dud. I brought it back to the store for a replacement and it is charging good now. I installed the 3x00 W car air box and ran the car for about 10 minutes. It is running slightly better it seems. I identified a vacuum leak where the plastic vacuum line for the pcv connects. I heard it hissing so I spilled some water on it and sure enough I could hear it slurping the water. I shut it down, took the hold down bolt off and noticed that the plastic fit pretty loose in the manifold. I slapped some RightStuff on it and bolted it back down. That's where I left it for now. I'm working in short stints due to my back probs. One other thing I noticed is that there is still some exhaust leaking at the downpipe connection! You can't hear it but there is a faint exhaust plume that rises and you can smell it. I just can't win! So the downpipe will come off yet again to get reworked and I may see about using a gasket of sorts in the ball/cone connection that I am using.

Can't wait to get the hood back on, it is at least capable of a test drive now!

[jmgtp]

The mechanical and wiring is DONE. All that is left in that department is putting the hood back on and getting a front end alignment.
I'm turning my focus to tuning now and that is something I do not have much experience with.

I've started a thread in the computer section since I believe it may get more eyes on it there.

Please take a look: http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthre...446#post438446