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Thread: 2005 Chevy Equinox 3400 coolant in enine oil

  1. #1

    2005 Chevy Equinox 3400 coolant in enine oil

    Need some help on an Equinox, got milky oil on dipstick, from the reading I have done this is a notorious head gasket/ Lower intake manifold gasket issue. Didn't know of this was the site or the category to post this question.
    thanks

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  3. #2
    Very weird, I thought 2004 + 3100/3400 used the updated gaskets?
    When you open the oilcap, does it also have a mliky/foamy condensation on it?

    Are you losing coolant? I know when mine went on my 01 Bu I had to top up my coolant pretty much every week for two weeks (I tried to get it done ASAP, not good to let the motor run like this, you'll ruin the bearings)

  4. #3
    Site Coder bszopi's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum! Too bad its not for a good reason...

    Definitely sounds like a lower intake gasket. And the updated gaskets don't always mean that it'll stop the failure, unfortunately. As stated, look under the oil cap. Any other symptoms you noticed while driving prior to looking at the dipstick? Could help in determining if it is indeed the intake, or possibly the head gasket.
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power

    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

  5. #4
    Thanks for the welcome guys! It's actually a family member's car which I can fix, fairly handy guy, so far.. lol

    Fireball - Yes he had to add coolant, he noticed a problem with the temp guage popping up to the red line while in a drive thru here in Jacksonville then it shot back down after the fan kicked on (that worried me as a drop in temp like that can crack/warp a head) then seemed ok. He did have to add some coolant. He drove back to ATL, GA then the other day he was driving home and the car started to lose power and began to blow white smole out the back. Once he told me that I figured head gasket as I have blown one before on a mid 90's Ram 5.9.

    The oil cap does have the typical milky (creamer/coffee) deposits on it. Thank you for the heads up on the bearing issues. I actually told him to tow it home and I drove my truck up and towed his car back down here to fix it. Figure this would cost the $2000-$3000 at the dealer (I called and got some quotes for kicks to tell him how much it would be, before I toold him I could fix it, haha!) so he spent $300 on trailor and gas, then just gaskets/oil/coolant.

    Bszopi - I prob answered some of the questions you were asking in the above. The engine was very sputtery and jerky from what he said. I know the basic deal here, tear down the top end, keeping all lifters and pushrods in same order to go back in same order, would like to clean the carbon out of the parts too.

    I just didn't know if there was any unique thins to this engine that I should be aware of, I'm not an engine builder I have just built some engines ranging from 350 chevy to 787 seadoo rotax, but I am still just an enthusiast not pro.

    Need a new toque wrench too and wondered the torque specs on the heads so I could get the proper range, tryingto track down a manual.

    Thank you for your help guys I do appreciate your responses and time.

  6. #5
    Site Coder bszopi's Avatar
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    With the conditions you are stating, I would go with the head gasket as well. Since I just happened to replace the HG on my own 3400, here is some info for you. Go with Fel-Pro PN HST 9071 PT-1. That will be the complete top end gasket kit, from the heads all the way up to the throttle body. It also includes the new metal lower intake gaskets, which will help prevent any further issues with the existing plastic lower intake gasket. Remember to also buy new head bolts, as they are torque-to-yield and shouldn't be reused.

    As far as torque specs, http://bszopi.net/drupal/content/340...Specifications . I thought I had all the specs moved back over here, but I guess not. Anyway, torque specs for all bolts start about halfway down. I'll try to find a couple images to show the sequence they (as well as lower intake) should be torqued in.

    If you have any other questions, post them up!
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power

    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

  7. #6
    Also this link has some pics and info that might help you get a better idea before you dive in.
    http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68087

  8. #7
    Bszopi & Fireball - wow, thank you so much for the help, that will really speed things up! Can't thank you enough for your time.

    I'll post back on here after things are back together and running just in case you were interested to see how the repair goes.

  9. #8
    Not a problem man.
    You'll find on here that people will do what they can to try and help you save time and money!
    Let us know how it goes, best of luck!

  10. #9
    Fireball - great link! Thankyou

    Bszopi - having a tought time tracking down that gasket set # other than the funky looking sites, NAPA has a set that is a diff number but looks to be the correct one, though they want $230.00 bucks! Crazy!

    Update - motor is torn down, both heads off, manifolds, going to clean them up with a ton of carb cleaner, lots of carbon. Thinking maybe I should do a couple of oil changes within a a week or a 100 miles to flush out all the contaminated oil, what do you guys think?

  11. #10
    Site Coder bszopi's Avatar
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    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

    Click on Part Number search, and enter the number as HST9071PT1. Rock Auto has it for $169, and you can get a discount from the following thread: http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthre...t-rockauto.com
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power

    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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