Purging the milkshake.

Scottyjr · 10-15-2008, 09:32 PM

After having drained the milkshake (a well mixed combination of oil and water) from the oilpan, I think that there might be some way to more or less flush a good bit ot the remains of the milkshake at least from the oil pan area. Should I put oil in and run the engine for a short time and then change the oil? Does anyone know of a better way to perform this flush? Thanks - Scotty

**SappySE107** · 10-16-2008, 06:30 AM

How long was it run like that? If it were mine, I would buy the cheapest oil, or maybe even some diesel oil and run it for a bit and drain it. If its real bad, kerosene and trans fluid will cut the oil and add more detergents to the system. Don't ask me for ratios as I have never had to do this and hope I never do. There are recipes on the internet if you do a search.

betterthanyou · 10-16-2008, 02:25 PM

Gunk sells an engine flush that you put in and run the engine for 20 mins. You mix it with the oil and the do an oil change with a fresh filter and oil after. The good thing is it will not compromise the lubricating properties of the oil.

Scottyjr · 10-16-2008, 09:20 PM

I guess it ran for about 12 minutes like that and that was at idle. My son checked the oil the day before and it was clear. The following day we went out to start it up and try to figure out what was going on. After about 10 minutes id started to bog down and then it stalled. It was then that we checked the oil and foung the milkshake.

I was doin' quite a bit of searching and reading about flushing engines and the way I have come to understand it is that if the engine is pretty new or older but very well maintained, the engine fush products will do the job. If the engine is pretty gunked up, it may do more harm than good due to solids becoming stuck in places they do harm.

What I've decided to do (unless I hear a better suggestion)m is to put cheap oil in it, run it, dump it and do it again. After the second drain I'll decide what to do depending on how the oil looks. If it looks pretty good, I'll put some good oil in it and check the dip stick frequently, and change it after a couple of weeks. What do you guys think about that plan?

And thanks for responding to my post.

- Scotty

pocket-rocket · 10-16-2008, 11:27 PM

I would go with the cheap oil route too. I would do it more then once to make sure you get as much of it as you can out. I remember stopping by Norm's shop from Norm's Fiberglass (one of the Fiero guys that was on here that's not far from me) and he was pulling the top end of his box truck engine apart because he used flush in it, and clogged a lifter I'm not trying to debate what Better says about Gunk in any way, but I do have a friend that used to dump all sorts of stuff in his engines to try to make them "run like new" again when the only real way to do that was rebuild them. It ended up messing them up. Good thing the first one was just a Dodge Omni

Live and learn.

betterthanyou · 10-17-2008, 04:42 AM

Agreed nothing in a Can will FIX a problem.

I used the GUNK on my Trooper motor only because I know the previous owner did not use expensive oil and it was a tad sludgy but noting major at all. However the GUNK did a nice job and I would use it again.

talon2swords · 10-20-2008, 06:39 PM

I used this stuff on my 3100 about 6K ago. It still runs. Don't know if my engine is "squeaky clean" inside but the tapping noise it was making has gotten a lot quieter. Stuff is kinda expensive. I would use it after a couple of cheapo oil changes and let it sit in there a while.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

mobbdeeptwisted · 10-21-2008, 11:54 PM

Seafoam it with Cheap Oil and A Good Filter,(K&N or ACDelco)

s_miller_420 · 10-22-2008, 12:31 AM

i used diesel fuel to clean out my 3100 (had 5 gal sitin around) worked good! till the motor siezed! (L.I.M. leaking oil on the sides??!?) if ya got it siting around it works... just do about 2 - 3 oil changes after!

Scottyjr · 10-22-2008, 08:41 AM

Started it up monday and let it idle for about 20 minutes; had to shut it down due to a significant water leak from a crack at the upper radiator hose inlet at the radiator. Tried to fix the leak with JB Weld; got the crack fixed but there's still a leak where the epoxy stops (point of least resistance?). Replenished the water and drove it two miles and changed the oil. Removed the radiator and continued the repair. Will start it up today and see how it goes. If it's ok to drive (at least locally) I'll be doing another oil change soon. Just don;t know how soon. Still mulling that over. - Scotty