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07-08-2007, 01:55 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: south texas
Posts: 1,459
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If you look at the ones that I posted, you will see 2 metal pieces on the top and bottom of the bolt holes on the sides. They are still plastic, but those 2 metal inserts keep the gaskets from getting crushed. I have had those in my car for 4 years or so, and I have reused them 5 times now (the lower intake has been off 5 times. They are still like new, and are not cracked at all.
__________________
Taylor
1988 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3100 MPFI
1990 Pontiac Grand Prix STE 3.1 MPFI
1995 Cutlass Supreme SL 3.4 TDC
1996 Pontiac Grand Prix SE Mary Kay Edition (rest in pieces)
"find something simple and complicate it"
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07-08-2007, 02:32 AM
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#22
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Dr. Feelgood
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 1,491
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Pics when I did my sister's 3100. You can see the thickness of the rubber around every port. It's obviously going to be the same thickness as the plastic gaskets otherwise it won't line up or seal correctly. I don't know how much of a difference it would make having the metal support sandwiched in the middle.
Also the way the original gasket failed, they ALL fail like that.
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Brian
'95 Cutlass Supreme- The Gas Saver
3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, 3400 PCM
2.5" DP/ Magnaflow Cat/ Hooker Aerochambers/ Resonator
3500 Intake manifold/ milled 59mm TB <--- awaiting Change
TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's
'00 Camaro- LS1/4L60e-sports car for the 20th century. 13.28@106.5
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07-08-2007, 02:48 AM
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#23
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If I only had money!!!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Omaha Nebraska
Posts: 1,223
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don't forget to replace the oil pump drive o-ring! that gets brittle and cracks and looks like the LIM gasket is seeping oil!
at least the metal gasket won't crack.
__________________
Andy
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, K&N drop in, 180* stat, 4T65E--3.69 LSD & Comp transmission controller
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07-08-2007, 09:36 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14
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Well the dealer ones are going in for now. The tabs should make a difference.
The only problem solver set that Oreily's had was $90 for the complete set.
Also the dealer ones come with a different torque spec. They now say 10 Ft lb on all bolts. The is the third set of torque specs I have seen for the intake.
However the 10 ftlbs sounds like it might make since. Hopefully will last for another 50K or so.
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96 Intrepid, 95 Ram, 96 GP3100, 88FieroGT 85FieroGT3.4, 74Vet, 67Stang
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07-08-2007, 03:00 PM
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#25
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If I only had money!!!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Omaha Nebraska
Posts: 1,223
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yeah, then you finger tighten back down after 20K miles. point being, you do that and after some miles you can loosen the bolts by hand. the dealership did my Z24 years ago. when i got it home that day, i added about 90 degrees more to all the bolts.
__________________
Andy
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, K&N drop in, 180* stat, 4T65E--3.69 LSD & Comp transmission controller
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07-08-2007, 04:28 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kansastan
Posts: 411
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I'm sure that the GM gaskets will work fine- they've GOT to be better than the originals.
I reckon felpro metal vs. GM plastic is just a matter of preference.
Like I tell everybody before they do this job: if you take nothing else from this forum- remember this:
KEEP THEM PUSHRODS IN ORDER.
The intake and exhaust pushrods are different lenghths- get two of them swapped, and you'll make valves hit pistons. It'll do hundreds of dollars worth of damage in a matter of seconds. Don't even THINK about cranking the engine over unless you're absolutely sure that the pushrods are in their proper places. It's downright sad how often people ruin their engines this way.
I reccomend that once you get the pushrods, rockers, and intake in place, you crank the engine over slowly by hand- using a 1/2" ratched on the crank dampener bolt. Turn it slowly and carefully, and if there's a pushrod out of place, it'll 'clunk' to a stop without doing damage. Then you can find and fix your problem- worked for a friend of mine with his '97 Lumina.
+1 on the oil pump drive o-ring advice. GM sells a new and improved o-ring that seals better and lasts longer.
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07-08-2007, 10:05 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: chi-town
Posts: 226
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i myself prefer for them to leal outward.
but why do some people get unlucky and heve em leaking inside the engine.
also i seen mines and the gasket is white.
i thought the engine was leaking through the lim but it was my radiator and i cleaned the gunk off the engine and so far knock on wood...no leaks.
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1992 nissan maxima se (190hp/205tQ)
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07-09-2007, 12:43 AM
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#28
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14
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Will all done, so far so good. Am driving the car to work tomorrow before I turn it over to my daughter, must to give it a road test.
Are the Felpro problem solver gaskets available just by themself or do you have to get them in a complete kit?
Thanks to all for the ideas and pictures.
__________________
96 Intrepid, 95 Ram, 96 GP3100, 88FieroGT 85FieroGT3.4, 74Vet, 67Stang
Last edited by dodgerunner; 07-09-2007 at 12:56 AM.
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07-10-2007, 09:09 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kansastan
Posts: 411
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I've only seen them in sets.
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07-11-2007, 11:12 AM
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#30
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Dr. Feelgood
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 1,491
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I bought them as an upper/lower set. Not the entire kit that includes head gaskets and such.
__________________
Brian
'95 Cutlass Supreme- The Gas Saver
3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, 3400 PCM
2.5" DP/ Magnaflow Cat/ Hooker Aerochambers/ Resonator
3500 Intake manifold/ milled 59mm TB <--- awaiting Change
TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's
'00 Camaro- LS1/4L60e-sports car for the 20th century. 13.28@106.5
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