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Members currently using Flashchat: 0
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The most chatters online in one day was 3, 05-15-2008. No one is currently using the chat. |
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10-22-2008, 07:52 AM
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#11
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 1,037
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CNC take a look at this adjustable fuel pressure regulator that I'm going to replace my current modified OE regulator with. It has a bypass that makes it perfect for use with the returnless fuel rail on the new engines as well as an extra port to mount a pressure gauge on.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Read over the pdf file with the specifics on it at the bottom of the page.
Perhaps you can fabricate some adjustable high flow fuel rails to accept the standard length and shorty style fuel injectors, or make and adaptor for the early style rail that makes it possible to use it with both injector types. Since it has one threaded end the other can be blocked off to make it work with the regulator.
Last edited by Joseph Upson; 10-22-2008 at 07:55 AM.
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10-22-2008, 10:14 AM
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#12
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Bisong eater :P
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Dayton, OH - Middle of nowhere
Posts: 583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Upson
CNC take a look at this adjustable fuel pressure regulator that I'm going to replace my current modified OE regulator with. It has a bypass that makes it perfect for use with the returnless fuel rail on the new engines as well as an extra port to mount a pressure gauge on.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Read over the pdf file with the specifics on it at the bottom of the page.
Perhaps you can fabricate some adjustable high flow fuel rails to accept the standard length and shorty style fuel injectors, or make and adaptor for the early style rail that makes it possible to use it with both injector types. Since it has one threaded end the other can be blocked off to make it work with the regulator.
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I like the Mallory unit and am using one on the MinusOne with the GEN-III AN-6 adapters. This should flow almost twice as much as a stock setup since both rails being fed fuel. It is hard to see the line routing in the pic but the AFPR has a fuel feed line from the pump, a return line to the tank and two lines feeding the fuel rails. I chose to use hard lines since my regulator is mounted to engine but flexible lines could be used if needed.
The newer GM returnless fuel rails aren't as friendly to modifications since they appear to be a brazed assembly with a small single input line.
I will look into some adapters for the shorter injectors.
BTW... Joseph, the spacers went out yesterday via USPS.
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10-22-2008, 12:14 PM
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#13
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Has too many hobbies.
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Missouri
Posts: 4,258
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2) Does this mean no cam sensor, which also means no OBD1."5" cars either? Hmm I guess that doesn't matter you can't tune OBD1."5" anyways so you'd be going MS or whatever anyways LOL. I think you could probably run OBD2 if you just disabled the SFI error codes as that's all the cam sensor is used for. It will default to MPFI mode, but not sure how well it can run like that.
3) Will it fit under stock front coolant pipe on FWD? Click my sig for larger image/site. Do they have the baffles like stock on the inside that keeps the oil from splashing near the PCV and vent hole?
Will that single roller chain be stronger than stock link style?
__________________
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
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10-22-2008, 06:10 PM
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#14
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: baie st anne n-b can
Posts: 301
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2) LZ Camshaft bearing sleeve kits for use with SBC or GEN-III bearings. These allow the use of GEN-III cams and TC sets in the LZ engines. Will not work with OBD-II due to cam position sensor location on the LZ engines.
so that means we could use a 3400 cam and timing cover on the 3900 motor ?
if so i can't wait for this !
oh and i got to find me a 3900!!!
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88 Z24
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10-22-2008, 08:45 PM
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#15
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that one guy
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: molalla, OR
Posts: 385
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screw everything else, i wanna know more about the ITBs!!
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88 Beretta CL- 3400 5spd, eibach springs, GM stb, kyb gr2 struts and kyb gas a just shocks, addco rear swaybar, yokohama avis v4s tires, ffp udp, 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with mangaflow muffler and cat. 3500 topend, cyrogenic treated rods, JE 10.5:1 pistons, clutchmaster stage 3, tce 65mm tb, ostrich ECU emulator, 1393 cam, comp springs and retainers, ss headers, parelled block, and ballanced. 86 Fiero SE-next project
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10-22-2008, 10:11 PM
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#16
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Bisong eater :P
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Dayton, OH - Middle of nowhere
Posts: 583
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Phil... It will be a couple of months before the single rollers will be ready.
Isaac... It would require OBD-I, MS or some other after market control.
Looking at your pic, I would say that the flat top valve cover would fit as it is about .09" taller than a stock cover. The finned cover is almost 1/4" taller. These were primarily designed for engines that were swapped into RWD vehicles. I am working on a more compact version that will easily fit on the front of a FWD engine, including a W-body. The rear cover is more of a problem due to its reduced height on one end to clear the alternator.
Edit: There is a baffle built into the inside of the valve cover and I will try to add a picture of it tomorrow.
The single roller has 85~90% of the strength of a double roller and should work great for all except the more radical engines.
Montess... Yes the cam, TC and cover will now fit.... BUT.... the issue of coolant return still has to be resolved. The LZ engines have U-flow cooling and the coolant exits through a casting that is mounted to the front of the heads. I am sure it can be done but it will still take some work. It would be very easy in a W-body.
Alxsmt... The ITBs were a one-off set that I made a couple of years ago. They are 45mm and bolt to a 3400 LIM. Definitely have a cool and unique sound when the RPMs come up. If I ever get enough free time and money, I plan to make a limited production run for the LZ engines. They will be around 55mm and have a different design velocity stack.
Time and money... need more of both.
Last edited by CNCguy; 10-22-2008 at 10:14 PM.
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10-22-2008, 10:42 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 1,037
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I'll be on the look out for the parts CNC, in addition to the U-flow coolant config don't forget the coolant passages in the cylinder heads are different from one end of the head to the other.
I just ordered my pressure regulator and plan to run a dual fuel feed by connecting a second line to the schraeder valve on the rail after removing the core. I have an electric fuel pressure gauge inside the car for monitoring pressure. I also received my in line fuel pump today so once I redo the wiring and the exhaust and make sure everything is tightly connected and sealed, I hope to have a very dependable swap.
I'm still amazed at how dependable the old 3100 it replaced was despite cylinder #6 being on the verge of comming apart.
So far the car cranked right up today after sitting for months. I'll have to work out the VVT repositioning but I think I'm going to set it at the halfway oint or slightly advanced so that it can be retarded from there and note the offline performance improvement (I hope).
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10-22-2008, 11:42 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 73
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I'm certainly interested in the single roller timing chain.
I need a new timing chain and I was dreading doing a full teardown and getting the crank machined for the double roller timing chain.
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10-23-2008, 12:08 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Selkirk, Manitoba
Posts: 405
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Just when I thought I was actually going to save money next year. Keep up the good work!
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1995 Grand Am SE
CarDomain
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10-23-2008, 12:11 AM
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#20
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada
Posts: 209
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Would the valve covers be available without the PCV and/or breather holes if requested?
I dont mind the front PCV but I have no use for the rear breather. The tube's always fall out anyway.
That finned cover powdercoated black with the fins machined/polished would be AWESOME with a matching polished fin 3500 UIM.
I'll also be looking at that timing chain come the new year.
Someone should machine a flange for the thermostat housing too  I cant use the stock waterneck. I need to relocate mine to get the rad hose further from the snail.
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