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Old 02-10-2009, 12:15 AM   #1
carbon
 
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Question 200+ WHP?

What exactly does it take to get at least 200bhp to the wheels with a '00 3400 and an auto tranny?

I find all these threads with wild builds which are all very nice, but just want a reliable 200 - 225bhp. Will it require heads and a cam? Or just ported intakes with headers... I have a 3400 sitting on my garage floor collecting dust and I want to use it but I want more than the stock 185bhp that it churns out.

Also what do I do with the AIR ports in the exhast side of the heads? I am obviously not going to use them.

So I guess my question is what are the realistic gains with the ported intakes and/or would just finding some 3500 heads and intakes be more worthwhile? I don't really have 800 bucks to carve out the 3400 heads...

Thanks for any input
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:59 AM   #2
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Ported heads and a tune, as well as a K&n and 2.5" exhaust are all the mods I have. I've been trying to get it to the dyno for a shit and a giggle, but turning a 9.72 in the 1/8 mile with a 3500 lb car probably puts me near 200 whp

Case in point: A stock Series II 3.8 SC usually dyno's 200-240 at the wheels and I can walk them lightly from a roll. From a dig my 3600 stall converter doesn't give them any hope. A GTP is comparable in weight to my Lumina.
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1/8 mile 9.72@75 mph, 2.0 60 foot



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Old 02-10-2009, 10:30 AM   #3
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For the K&N only use a drop in filter. These engines do NOT like cones, and tend to lose torque by using a cone filter. The stock airbox (at least in the w-body) is really well designed, and is not as restrictive and most people think.
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:42 AM   #4
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"redbird"s 3400 is a stock 90K bottom end, 1617 grind cam from the WOT-Tech store, some ported heads from me and some tuning is 224 WHP although it's a 5 speed. He's had a few problems recently but he drives the crap out of it.

to get 200 WHP you need to shoot for about 260 crank HP. A 3500 top end, good cam and 3500 exhaust manifolds with a good tune will do that easy.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:36 PM   #5
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I need to save up some money... how long can an engine sit on a garage floor?
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:57 PM   #6
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I fired up a 2.8L and it ran great after sitting in my parents barn for 2.5 years before I installed it in a friend's truck.
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3100 MPFI View Post
For the K&N only use a drop in filter. These engines do NOT like cones, and tend to lose torque by using a cone filter. The stock airbox (at least in the w-body) is really well designed, and is not as restrictive and most people think.
Totally agree... I thought I would be outflowing my air box because the opening is only in the very front of it and it's just a little slot, but I drilled holes in my airbox to test and my MAF showed that I was drawing in no extra air, just warmer air. I need a new air box bottom I use a K&N dropin however.
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:58 PM   #8
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The snorkel on my stock box was about 1.5" opening, way less than the stock TB.. hahah. I opened up some parts on it, but it draws from fender air too so not really hot air there.
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdave View Post
"redbird"s 3400 is a stock 90K bottom end, 1617 grind cam from the WOT-Tech store, some ported heads from me and some tuning is 224 WHP although it's a 5 speed. He's had a few problems recently but he drives the crap out of it.

to get 200 WHP you need to shoot for about 260 crank HP. A 3500 top end, good cam and 3500 exhaust manifolds with a good tune will do that easy.
so basically a cam and a tune will get 260 BHP in a 3500!? seems a bit optimistic
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:22 PM   #10
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You will not get 260 WHP that way. Need to at least add headers/full open exhaust to that list.
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