Let's talk about the 440-T4 - Page 2

torq455 · 03-11-2008, 10:26 PM

Brad--you miss read. i have the 4T65E, not the 440T4. i used to have the 125C which in those years it was that or the 5 spd stick.

**bszopi** · 03-11-2008, 11:28 PM

I was just going by order of posts... Dave posted the weight of a 440-T4, and then you posted that you removed weight from the Z, therefore I correlated the 2. I figured you'd know better, but I know I've made plenty of errors in postings over the years.

torq455 · 03-12-2008, 01:52 PM

well everybody interperets things differently, though i should have specified the weight loss was from removing useless parts, not from changing transmission. my bad.

LeftVentricle · 03-13-2008, 08:23 PM

I've noticed a lack of an article about the 440T4 in the wiki. I'm not really surprised though, since Wikipedia doesn't say a hell of a lot about it either. It's not even listed in its own article; it's a subsection of the TH125 article.

TurboGTU · 03-15-2008, 12:32 PM

the 440-t4/4t60 isn't too bad. But your going to have to beef it up to at least the Turbo GP specs which had about the stoutest 4t60. Forget the F7 they don't say much about it. The GP had hardened Diff (95 or 96 z34 had the last of the hardened units), sunshell, more cluches in 2nd, high element sprag, two clutch 4th, and a turbo specific valvebody (linepressure i assume).

The weak 440-t4 that had only 4! cluches in 2nd is good for 160lbs tq all day. Think 3t40
The stronger units (caddy, TGP) were good for at least 200-250lbs tq all day.

The early units shifted into 4th at high speeds even if you didn't want it to. The late 4t60s corrected that problem and never shifted into 4th at WOT and lasted abusing owners longer.

taxi cab driving (stop-n-go) will weare out a trans faster than daily or performance driving.
To beef up the 4t60 to race spec you'll need a late 4t60 since early units didn't have the 2nd cluch drum like the late units and 4t60-e. What you can do to a 4t60-e you can do to a 4t60. Using 03+ 4t65 2nd drum,sun shell, planets, diode sprag. You'll need to retain your 4th cluch hub and cluches. You'll also need to reuse your differential and carrier, parking paw assem, and use either the 4t60 bands or check to see if the 4t60-e/4t65 bands fit the 65 drum. 4t60 went to alot of changes so you'll have to check for your unit. Have your tq converter rebuilt and brazed. Rebuilt your valve body completely and shim or intall high tension springs in the accumulators. You can used the Raybestos z-pack and high static tans on the clutches or blueplates or whatever to make it last.

I have an idea of cutting off the end of the trans where the differential is weld the 60-e piece so it can have a serviceable differential. Maybe use the 65HD differential and case.

heres the pic of the 2nd drum carier difference form early unit and the 4t65,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture051.jpg

Diffrences about the 44t4 4t65
http://www.tgpforums.com/index.php?topic=3300.0

sharkey · 03-15-2008, 11:25 PM

also to note, on the 440t4 the throttle cable controlls the shift points, by tightening it you will make it shift later, while losening it makes it shift early. pressure is controlled by the vacume modulator just like on the 4t60e. you can get an adjustable modulator and by screwing it is you will make it shift firmer, while losening it makes it softer.

LeftVentricle · 10-25-2008, 09:22 PM

Bumping to ask about applications. Are all 440s the same, or are they only able to be used in the platform they come from? I'm looking into costs for mine, and putting in a used one is probably a bit cheaper than rebuilding the one I have. Is an H- or W-body unit the same? Will there be any difficulty bolting it into an A-body? What was the latest they were available before being supplanted by the electronic version?

gpse3400 · 11-11-2008, 10:38 PM

Go with on from a W body for the sake for matching gear ratio. the H bodie ones seem to hold longer and I think its due to the type of springs used for the accumulator. one thing for sure I would put a new gasket on of the side pan, maybe while you are there replace the TCC soleniod with a GM one. and any switches that are in there. And in the bottom pan remove the acculumaltor cover and replace them with springs from a '91-'92 and get the inner springs from a the same year FWD Caddilac which would pretty much be any caddy at that time. That will firm it a bit. Oh yeah filter and gasket too.