[Azrael]

After a week of suspicious behaviour I had a look at the fluid. It was still red but I couldn't see to the bottom of a cup like I could with fresh fluid. I changed the fluid and filter about 3 months ago so something's definitely not right. The car still drives ok but acceleration is sluggish below ~2100 RPM and doesn't creep at idle as fast as it used to. Shifts in all gears are still strong so I'm thinking bad convertor or burnt clutches. To be safe I dumped the fluid and topped up with new ATF.

Anyways I know I need a rebuild soon. I'm not looking to do anything crazy though as spend-mas is coming. Should I go with a standard rebuild kit or should I look into the aftermarket Raybestos (or other?) frictions? I'll definitely ask about a 35/35 sprocket set to replace my 37/33 set.

[Azrael]

Talked to a trans specialist and he said the 35/35 gears are regular stock so that's not a problem so I'll definitely go with that. He talked me out of performance clutch packs since they tend to be thicker than OEM and require thinner steels which are more likely to warp under heat and stress. I'll also go with Sonnax valves and various hardened internals, especially the dreaded 4th gear shaft. I'm thinking bumping up the torque convertor a smidge from a 1650 stall to one around 1900 RPM with a carbon weave lockup. I know it's not much but I wanted the driveability to stay close to where it's currently at.

[gpse3400]

Get a converter from a W-Body 3100 equipped car it will have a higher stall of around 2500.

If you wanted to go with a 3.73 FDR you will need the sprockt and chain set from a 3.4 TDC Wbody and a final drive and quite possibly an internal gear from a 3100 Wbody. You could do just the sprocket swap as I think the driver sprocket is smaller than the driven sproket. BTW if you do use a W body final drive , get a new sun gear from sonnax