Heated O2 Sensor Install
by
Published on 01-21-2011 08:15 AM
This is a how-to on installing a heated oxygen sensor into your car. The benefit of a heated oxygen sensor is that your car will go into closed loop much quicker, which means the ECM is adjusting your fuel based off of the sensor and not maps. By doing this your car will run better quicker on cold start-ups. It will also improved fuel consumption during start up, as well as reduce emissions.
| First, you will need to get a 4-wire heated O2 sensor with the pig-tail. |
Attachment 5317 |
| Here is a diagram of the plug end of the sensor. The pin letter's are also marked on the pig-tail. Not all sensor ends will have the same wire color's, but the pin letter should correspond with the function. |
Attachment 5316 |
| First you want to swap out your stock single-wire O2 for the heated one. Luckily I have an O2 bung in my down pipe, because there is no way the larger heated O2 body will clear the tie-rod in the stock location. |
Attachment 5315 |
| Next you want to remove the stock single-wire O2 sensor plug end. |
Attachment 5318 |
| Then hook Pin B (purple) to the signal wire. |
Attachment 5319 |
| Next, you will need to find power that is only 12V when the engine is running. There is a wire coming out of the back of the alternator that does just that. That wire is brown with a white stripe. I spliced in to there with the Pin D (brown). I also used an in-line fuse holder with a 5A fuse. |
Attachment 5320 |
| Next, hook the Pin A (tan) and Pin C (black) wires together, and run them both to ground. I mounted mine to one of the left over holes from the stock MAP sensor location. |
Attachment 5321 |
| Then I zip-tied the connector to one of the power-steering lines to keep it out of the way from getting tangled. |
Attachment 5322 |
And that's it. This has drastically cut down my warm up time. Today is was 0C (32F) and it took under 2 minutes for my car to enter closed loop, where as before it would take well over 5 minutes in warmer weather.
Menu